Daily Doses

6 days in Fontainebleau

2012-02-12T17:49:00.000-08:00

Thats right, I just spent 9 days/6 climbing days in the magical forest of Fontainebleau. My first trip to Europe was supposed to be a full month adventure, but there were some unexpected happenings at home that required my attention more. To be honest though, I can't complain. Font exceeded my expectations in many ways, and opened my eyes wide to the endless amounts of rock that resides in that area. My 6 days consisted of beautiful weather. Some said it was the best stint of weather they had seen in years. As for the actual climbing part of it, I was very psyched with how I did. I sampled countless classics, and was able to dispatch a few test pieces along the way.

Honestly, that's all I really have to say for now. No amount of words here can exactly explain to you the beauty that is Fontainebleau. It's truly a magical place, and I will wait impatiently for my next opportunity to visit.

Be looking for a DPM stash vid of my time there popping up sometime in the next few weeks!

Enjoi,
JW

Hueco Tanks Videos

2012-01-17T06:56:00.000-08:00

So our Hueco Tanks videos are finally out! The main 13 minute piece can be viewed over on the STASH at Deadpointmag.com. As a little taste here is a small extras clip I threw together of Brian A climbing Left martini and me on the uber-classic Slashface V13.

14 days till FONT!!!!!!

Enjoi

Gross Roof

2012-01-03T11:59:00.000-08:00

Been a minute since i've updated, I know. Been relaxing, taking some time off the blog scene, and just trying to get out and climb as much as possible. Our trip to Hueco Tanks in december went very well. I probably had one of my more productive trips, especially for just being there 10 days. Everyone else I believe felt the same. Kasia climbed her first v11 Sunshine, and a hand full of v9's and v10's. A nice little video of our time there should be up soon! Upon our return we spent time with our families, ate a TON of food, and watched the temperatures here in the South start to drop. With a belly full of food Kasia and I went out to climb on the classic Gross's Roof at Cumberland. Things went very well as Kasia climbed the stand V11 very quickly, and I was able to climb the v13 sit start for its first ascent.

I'm now looking at only 28 days till I depart for Fontainebleau, and I couldn't be more psyched! January will be spent trying to train, and work on some very cool projects i've recently ran across. I hope everyone out there is having an amazing season!

The rock of Fontainebleau
photo: Jamie Emerson

Enjoi

The Recent

2011-11-30T18:00:00.000-08:00

As of late i've been climbing a decent bit. Training in the gym, sport climbing, and some bouldering around Chatt. My highlight of the past 2 weeks though was the fact that I got to bolt my first sport route. I chose a really nice orange wall just out right of Apes on Acid at Castle Rocks. The line reminds me of a harder version of No Redemption at the RRG, and tomorrow i'm heading back to try my hand at the first ascent.

I've dubbed it 'Cookie Monster'

Today though Kasia, Rami, and I went out to Little ROck City for an afternoon sesh. The rock was still quite damp but we were able to find some dry rock.

I tried the impossible 8a, Made in France. Has anyone even climbed this thing???

Hueco in 11 days!!!!!

Enjoi

Another from the Castle

2011-11-24T12:19:00.000-08:00

Went out to Castle Rocks yesterday to try and finish off an old Jerry Roberts classic, Apes on Acid 13d. I was able to complete the route first go and began scoping out other route possibilities. The wall just right of Apes is an incredible blank (ish) golden face. Luis Rodriguez began bolting the top of the route when the question arose if it was even possible. I'm not 100% sure it will go either, but i'm psyched to head out there soon, finish the bolting job, and give it some efforts!

Screen shot of Apes on Acid

Enjoi

Castle Rock Trail Day

2011-11-20T17:46:00.000-08:00

Today I decided to attend the Castle Rock's Trail Day near Jasper, Tn. This is my second year in a row participating in the trail day and though this year's attendance was lower than the last, we had a very productive day. Luis Rodriguez, owner of The Tennessee Bouldering Authority, organized the event and was there doing work re-bolting classic lines on the Predator wall.

Big thanks to the Atlanta Rocks team who also showed up to help out. They held it down, and did work picking up trash on the trail in and the tops of the cliff. The rest of us including, Kasia Pietras, Rami Annab, Aj Hanson, and Anna Fox trudged from one end of the cliff to the next picking up remnants of good times fallen from the top.

Billy re-bolting Copperhead

Luckily enough the area is super well kept, and the days work shortly turned into a fun filled climbing day. I got to climb super classics such as Predator 12b, Copperhead 13a, and gave a couple good efforts on Apes on Acid 13d/14a. Afterwards we did a quick raffle and dished out some free swag!

Kasia's got the swag!

Big Thanks again to all who showed up. Events like this are crucial to keeping our climbing areas pristine and I strongly urge more climbers to get involved whenever they can.

More shots from the day:

Aj chillin

Luis

Gettin psyched up!

Enjoi

Day at Dayton

2011-11-18T09:04:00.001-08:00

Yesterday Brion, Rami, and I went out to Dayton Pocket to try our luck on a couple cool boulders. The day was quite eventful as Rami climbed Lord of the Dance v11, Brion was able to snag the second ascent of Foundation v11, and Brion and I both started trying a new project on the Western Gold bloc.

Project

At first glance the project looked quite doable. The first move is relatively simple to a lone pocket in the middle of the wall. After this you have to make a MASSIVE throw right hand to a small sloping edge, fighting gravity as it rips you back down the hill. The move itself seems to be the hardest single move I've ever encountered. When I think of hard one move problems such as Tall Tee, this one definitely seems to be a step above. I made a few decent efforts at the move, with my best goes being grabbing the crimp, yet I am unsure if I am anywhere near sticking it. Time will tell, and i'm psyched to head back!

On another note, I just recently purchased a Canon t3i!! This thing is definitely the nicest camera I have ever owned, and i'm psyched that It not only shoots video but pictures as well. Still got a lot to learn, but i'm psyched to get it started and see what I can come up with!

Here's a vid I shot yesterday of Brion climbing Foundation. Unfortunately the SD card I had was only a class 6, so I had to shoot in 640 rather than its 1920 capabilities. Oh well, quality will only get better!

Enjoi

Times at the Obed

2011-11-01T21:42:00.000-07:00

The past few weekends friends and I have spent our time at the Lilly Boulders in the Obed Wild and Scenic River. It's been quite perfect really. Everyone has had amazing projects to try, and the weather at Lilly is much more pleasant than Chattown in the early fall. I personally have been psyched on two specific boulders, Chinese Arithmetic and a project on the recluse roof. Both of these problems are incredible, and if I can complete them they will be two of the hardest problems I've ever climbed. Meanwhile I am staring at 4 splits, and these next few days are going to spent healing up in hopes I can make it back to Lilly early next week.
The season is closing in here in the south and I couldn't be more ready for it!!!

Here's a short vid from our time spent in the boulders.

Enjoi

Barn Door 2000 FA

2011-10-20T17:26:00.001-07:00

The last two days I have spent my time trying two very very good projects located at Little Rock City, Tn. Day one i focused on the slab project that Brion and I have been trying on and off for like 3 years. I was able to complete the problem totally out of the blue for the FA naming it Team 87. For the grade, I am not 100% sure, but since my hardest slab prior to Team 87 was Odyssey V9, I figured V10 sounds appropriate. Later on that day I focused my attention on the looooong standing Barn Door 2000 project. I gave it many close attempts, but in the end I left empty handed. Today though, was different. I went back out there with the single focus of finishing it off, and I did! On my 3rd attempt of the day, with slightly different beta, I stuck the high edge and topped out. Very psyched to have this problem completed!

Here's a clip of the Barn Door 2000 FA

Enjoi

The Old is New

2011-10-17T09:45:00.000-07:00

This weekend a few friends and I ( Rami Annab, Kasia Pietras & Taylor Mcneill) took a trip to a couple old areas that I haven't visited in years. Beautiful, remote granite boulders nestled in the thick green foliage of The Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

I first visited these areas 6 years ago and haven't returned in 4. Needless to say I was psyched for another peek. What I recalled most about the area was that the boulders were granite, unlike the majority of rocks that litter the southeast. Also, i remembered the boulders being relatively blank. Little to no features, no jugs, and small crimps. A recipe for hard boulders, yea? Saturday morn we woke up early and drove 45 minutes to the 'roadside bloc' that hosts a single amazing project on a perfect 40 degree overhang. This boulder was strange and quite difficult. Essentially the boulder consists of a hard v9 bottom, to a v9 or v10 dyno at the finish. Temps were not the best that day but I was lucky enough to snag the FA dubbing the line Bushido V11.

Bushido V11

After this we were all psyched to take the 15 minute hike up the mountain to the next cluster. This area I remembered well, and I knew there were at least 2 nice projects waiting to be climbed. One of which being a simulator of LRC's slab testpiece Space. I got the rope out, rapped down the thing and started cleaning. Rami got out his assortment of brushes and started scrubbing as well. 30 minutes later we had the problem prepped and ready and only 15 more minutes after that the boulder was climbed for its 1st and 2nd ascents. Spaced and Dissonant V6 is her name.

While all this was going on Taylor was over at the other project basically mowing grass off the top. He eventually got it cleaned up nicely, and we were able to climb the problem. I called this one Spitting Cobra V8, and though it's a small(ish) problem, it packs a powerful punch!

Overall the smokies exploration was a success, and I am very confident that this area holds more amazing projects to be climbed.

Me (4 years ago) on a project in the Smokies

Needs some cleaning

Big butt looking boulder up the road

Sunday we all decided to head out to the Lilly Boulders and spend the day trying some new boulders and getting in some mileage. 77 was the high so we were a bit skeptical at first but the day proved to be decent. I was able to complete all the moves but one on Chinese Arithmetic V13, while Rami and Taylor both put in super efforts of Testify V12. I was also fortunate enough to discover a brand new project on the Recluse roof! I am so psyched on this thing, and I am positive that once it is completed it will be somewhere in the v14/15 range. Can't wait for the cold weather!!

Here's a short video from the weekend.

Enjoi

'A Fine Line' Premier in Atlanta, Ga

2011-10-06T08:41:00.000-07:00

So tonight is the first premier of Andrew Kornylaks ' A Fine Line'. If you happen to be in Atlanta, or you have the chance to go check it out I highly recommend it! Andrew and Josh Fowler did an amazing job with this thing, and i'm proud to have been a part of it!!

Also for those of you who are attending the Stone Fort (LRC) competition this weekend be sure to stick around after the comp for the second major viewing of 'A Fine Line'. The movie will be premiered on the 18th fairway right next to the boulders! Gonna be sick!

Here's some beta to get you to tonights viewing!

Time:
Thursday, October 6 · 7:00pm - 10:00pm

Location:
Patagonia Atlanta - 34 East Andrews Drive, Atlanta GA 30305

Additional Info:
Admission is FREE!

Come and hang out at Patagonia Atlanta with an awesome crew of people and see the premiere of "A Fine Line." Presented by Dead Point Media. Directed by Andrew Kornylak and Josh Fowler.

Fore More info: http://theblindmonkey.com/2011/09/a-fine-line-2/

A new full-length film from directors Andrew Kornylak and Josh Fowler for Dead Point Media, A Fine Line follows one season with some of the world's most visionary boulderers as they pursue the best - and worst - rock in America, from Alpine Colorado to remote Idaho and the Deep South.

Featuring Jimmy Webb, Brion Voges, Dave Graham, Daniel Woods, Peter Beal, and other top climbers, A Fine Line is a beautiful visual
meditation on the bouldering life.

Trailer: http://vimeo.com/28677263

PreOrder: http://www.hdclimbingvideos.com/products/fine-line-ak-productions-dvd-preorder

Lowepro will be giving away a FREE video bag when you purchase the HD version of the film at
the event!

Triple Crown: Hound Ears, Nc

2011-10-05T20:03:00.000-07:00

Last weekend was the first stop of the annual triple crown bouldering competition held at Hound Ears, Nc. Though I decided not to compete in the comp this year, i happily made the trek through those windy roads to plant myself deep in the Appalachian mountains for a weekend filled with amazing weather, good friends, and an abnormally relaxing comp scene.

This year Voges & I decided to dub the hound ears comp day 'project day' as we set out into the field taking a glance at a couple beautiful undone lines. Luckily for us we ran across a couple pieces of rock that suited our fancy. First on the list was a project on the three bears boulder. Voges was able to climb the line for the first ascent, and i followed close behind with the second of 'Subject to Change' v11. Afterwards we were directed to a project down the hill by triple crown organizer Jim Horton. We turned the corner, dropped our jaws, said fuck yea, and began cleaning vigorously! 2 hours later, and about 6 days of skin in the hole I made the FA of the line dubbing it 'Projections' V12 ( likely the hardest bloc in the field ). Brion obviously followed close behind for the second!

Here's a vid of our day plus Brion climbing the famous litz problem 'Kratos' V12.

Congratulations to all the competitors who competed last weekend, and congrats to all the peeps that had a killer time!

Check here for the full results of the comp. http://www.triplecrownbouldering.com/HE-Scores2011.pdf

This weekend is going to be the 2nd stop of the series at Stone Fort. I'm planning on climbing in the following 2 competitions, and although i just caught some sickness going around and it's going to be 80 degrees saturday, i'm looking forward to the weekend!

Enjoi

A Fine Line: Official Trailer

2011-09-07T15:24:00.000-07:00

So here's the trailer to a full length vid shot by Andrew Kornylak called ' A Fine Line'. I was lucky enough to have a huge involvement in the flick and i am very pleased with what Andrew has come up with! This one hosts some great climbing footage shot from all over the U.S. Including some Alpine areas in Co, Castle Rocks Idaho, and of course.. THE SOUTH !! It should be available for purchase on hdclimbingvideos.com in the month of October. So get psyched !!!

Enjoi

Video: Daniel Woods climbs Chinese Arithmetic V13

2011-08-21T20:23:00.001-07:00

As i'm sitting around the house trying to stay motivated, patiently waiting for the up & coming season, I always find myself checkin out sick videos from the past. Tonight i've stumbled back upon a very cool video made by Spencer Victory of Daniel Woods climbing two rarely repeated Litz lines at the Obed in Tennessee. Most impressive of the two being the 2nd ascent of Chinese Arithmetic V13. I've grown up climbing around the South and this line is by far the hardest established boulder i've seen. Can't wait for the season to kick in, and my journeys take me back to the place i started climbing to try my luck on this one.

Check it!

http://www.youtube.com/victorypro#p/u/3/KFmSAvEZEvs

Back in the Nooga/ Colorado Vid

2011-08-13T14:27:00.000-07:00

Well, the CO trip is over, and i'm back in Chattanooga chillin in the heat. Just finished my first TBA "get back in shape" session, and it was humbling to say the least... Psyched on whats to come though! I see lots of route climbing in my future, training for Hueco in early January, and the incredible FONT in february!!!

Got some ideas to shoot another "Summer Sessions" video of some southern bouldering/ sport climbing so keep an eye out for that. Until then, here's a quick clip i through together of some bouldering in Colorado.

Enjoi

Quick Vid from Cam

2011-08-01T20:32:00.000-07:00

The other day Dave, Daniel, Hugh and I we're just perusing through the Talus field between Upper Chaos and Super Chaos and ran across a pretty neat little diamond shaped roof. We cleaned er up a little bit, tried some moves, and figured out a powerful method that made the boulder a bit easier than we originally suspected. I was able to snag the FA calling it Whoopie V9, and Daniel followed quickly after. Check out the cool vid Cam so graciously edited!

Whoopie w/ Jim Webb & Dan Woods from cameron maier on Vimeo.

Enjoi

Lincoln Lake Video

2011-06-24T21:41:00.000-07:00

Here's a cool clip of Brian A and I climbing some rocks up at Lincoln Lake. Courtesy of BEAR CAM !!!

Jimmy Webb and Brian Antheunisse tear da lake up from cameron maier on Vimeo.

Enjoi

Climbing in Colorado

2011-06-12T20:24:00.000-07:00

So it's been about three weeks since I arrived in Co, and the times have been pretty good! I've been living here in Boulder with good friends Dave G and Diego Montull. Dave has been kind enough to allow me to stay at his crib FO FREE !! Which is always baller. Most of my time has been spent in the beautiful remote areas of Mt. Evans. Though upon my arrival I was able to check out the new hot spot Endo Valley, located at a lower sector of Rocky Mountain National Park. Words can't fully explain how amazing these areas are here. I have to say Lincoln Lake is just the shit. The scenery is breathtaking, the boulders are amazing, and the 'scene' is mostly quiet and peaceful. Everything you look for in a climbing area !

The past 2 weeks i've spent the majority of my time up at Lincoln. Trying to repeat all the amazing problems Dave and Daniel established last season. So far things have gone well, and i've been able to tick away a few very nice problems. Here's a small SPRAY list for ya ( every single one of these problems come HIGHLY recommended )

-Endo Valley-
Flux for Life v13
Dave's Problem V10
Glow in the Dark Estrellas V11
Extra Alienated V9 (flash)

-Lincoln Lake & Area A-
Phobos V10 (flash)
Honey Badger V11 (flash)
The Exfoliator V12
Tattooed Teardrops V12 (flash)
Evil Backwards V13
Death Trout V13
Vanilla Sky V13
We Can Build You V14
Big Worm V14

Just 4 days ago I was up at Area A and I was trying what might be one of the hardest problems EVER for me.. Ode to the Modern Man. It basically revolves around 3 hard moves, climbing on some of the smallest holds i've ever seen. I surprised myself this year by nearly nabbing an ascent. Though on one of my final attempts I split my pinkie pretty deep, and haven't been able to heal it up since. With 8 days left on my trip i'm super nervous that my skin will not be ready for another round before i leave..... we shall see!

Other than that my next 8 days will be mainly spent at lincoln lake. Really psyched to try a few more problems such as Little House on the Prairie, Warrior Up, To your scattered bodies go, and Let the right one in. Lets hope my skin holds up!!!

Be sure to check where all my psyche be comin from !!
http://vimeo.com/16291191

Enjoi

Another CO summer

2011-05-22T21:36:00.000-07:00

Welp, it's that time of year again. In just 2 days i'll be on a plane heading towards the rockies where I am going to be spending the whole summer livin, sk8n, and climbin in the mountains !! I have a nice little spot hooked up courtesy of the Mr. Chadwick Greedy. So the livin sitch is gonna be perty dank! Goals for the summer are to skate alot, climb alot, and hopefully send a few sick boulders. Specifically all the new problems put up last year in Wolverine Land. Also on the tail end of the trip i'll be makin my way out to SLC for the tradeshow comp. Hopefully I can do decent this year and make it into tha billz !!!! Updates will be plenty !!

Enjoi

La Sportiva Pythons

2011-05-06T13:10:00.000-07:00

So, two days ago I got the brand spankin new La Sportiva Pythons sent to my front door. The hype behind this shoe has been gradually building for the past year or so, and when I heard they were on their way I was ecstatic!! So, what i'm wanting to do now is provide a small review and insight into what I think about this new shoe. Hope someone finds this useful!

CONSTRUCTION-

The new python is similar in look to the Classic Cobras, but a BIG upgrade when it comes to the overall shoe. A couple up & ups I noticed is the cross band construction under the sole, which keeps the shoe in a permanently down-turned position, the extra rubber on the front of the shoe for extreme toe hooks, a single velcro strap at the top for extra snugness, and stiffer rubber under the toe that is sensitive on small feet, but not flimsy. The python being a bit softer than the solution, makes for a much more comfortable shoe, but still gives you that edge you need when you're trying hard climbs. Rather it's smearing, edging, or toeing in on the roofs the python seems to do it all!

-SIZING-

I ordered my pythons in a size 40 1/2 ( same as my solutions) but after breaking them outa the box and being able to basically just slip em on, i think it would be best next time to go a half size down.

-PERFORMANCE-

How are these things on the wall? .. AMAZING! I've honestly never busted out a brand new pair of kicks and just went almost straight into projecting with little to no break in time. I did a nice juggy warm up a few times and noticed that i had good feeling in what i was stepping on, precision in the toe, and comfort in my heel. These things stick to your feet like glue. For me, i've never put on a pair of shoes that suction to my foot the way the Pythons do. It's like putting your toe's into a snug yet comfortable solution, and slipping your heel into a testarossa. It's perfect.

The pythons all in all were built mainly for competition climbing. Sportiva wanted to build the perfect shoe to match the competitors needs. A high performance climbing shoe that can basically do it all (and it does). Now this is not to say that it is just for indoor climbing. The shoe outside climbs just as well, and is an easy on easy off, comfortable solution to your climbing needs! Also, if it's money your worried about these things are cheaper than your average sportiva, sittin at $130 rather than $155.

So go check em out!! I highly recommend!

Enjoi

Red River Gorge / Obed

2011-04-25T11:01:00.000-07:00

This weekend Kasia, Aj, and I took a trip up to the Red River Gorge (despite the weather looking like complete trash) We spent 2 days at the Red, before deciding the weather was just not worth the stay, and we bailed to the Obed for a day of better weather.

For our two days at the red we spent both of them at Bob Marley. On our first day I was able to climb No Redemption 13b on my 2nd attempt, while kasia and Aj worked out the beta on Dogleg 12a/13a.

Then on the 2nd day Kasia was able to piece together Dogleg ( one of the sickest things i've ever seen her climb ) while Aj got agonizingly close. Also I was able to climb a really nice one called Ultra Perm 13c.

At the Obed we took a hike out to South Clear and basically climbed in the Stephen King Library the whole day. Kasia climbed the shinning 12b, I climbed maximum overdrive 13a, misery 13b, solstice 12a, and a few others. Overall pretty good day! We all got ultra pumped and basically saw it as a day of endurance training.

Most of my climbing career has been geared towards climbing boulders, so for the next month while I'm in the south i'm gonna be gettin at the routes! Psyched to go out and try the ol' SOCO on thursday!!!!!

ENJOI

Back in the NOOG

2011-04-09T10:10:00.001-07:00

So i arrived home last night and went straight to my favorite restaurant ( TERMINAL !! ) Psyched to be home for a few weeks before i'm back on the road. Got some big plans coming up involving The ISLAND crew ( Chadwick Greedy, Nate Bancroft & Dave G ) we're traveling to Norway for 1 month searching, developing, and climbing some of the best boulders the world has to offer. I am psyched to say the least !! Our homie Nate Bancroft, who made Reach, will be filming the entire trip so you can expect a sick vid coming from all that ! If you haven't heard already, keep your eye out for the ISLAND. We got volume vids being edited as we speak... and they. are. sick.

For now here is a cool clip Cardeck edited of Dave & I climbing at Red Feather Lakes, CO.

And another nice video by Nalle featuring some of what Norway has to offer.

Enjoi

Burnout V12 video

2011-03-25T11:37:00.000-07:00

Here's a cool clip Jon Cardwell put together of Dave and I climbing one of the best v12's CO has to offer. From my first look at the boulder, i knew it was my style, and instantly I saw it as a prime candidate for a flash attempt. I got the beta spray, sat down, chalked up, and climbed it to the top. Pretty psyched!!

Enjoi

Kasia in the Obed

2011-03-21T11:12:00.000-07:00

Kasia & AJ took a trip down to the Obed last weekend to sample some of the nicest stone in the south. From what i've heard the weather was great and they had a great time! Here's a clip!

Kasia in crush mode

2011-03-17T21:01:00.000-07:00

While i'm here in Idaho, i've been checkin in on my girl. She's been hanging out in Chatty, but not just sitting around! Here's a vid of her finishing off one of her long term projects, Bedwetters v9/10.

Enjoi

Just right Low, Flagstaff MTN

2011-03-15T10:06:00.000-07:00

Here's a quick video that Peter Beal put together of me making a rare ascent of Just right (low) V11, and Peter Climbing the V10 to the right. Thanks Peter!

More to come soon!

Enjoi

2 from Boulder Canyon

2011-02-20T00:23:00.000-08:00

Well today was my last day here in Colorado. Tomorrow I am heading home to chattanooga. Time to step it up on the training game, get stronger, and return to CO ASAP!

Here's a clip I threw together of a couple problems I was able to climb in Boulder Canyon. Thanks to John Gass for the filming!

Enjoi

Fantasia Video

2011-02-17T21:47:00.000-08:00

So here's a cool clip my buddy John Gass threw together of me climbing the 2nd ascent of Daniel Woods Fantasia, v14.
This climb is ultra mega.. and the setting, the movement, and overall value of this bloc speaks for itself. Simply an incredible boulder problem!

Thanks John!

Enjoi

Shades crest bouldering 2011

2011-02-08T23:24:00.000-08:00

So, I just got word in from Adam Henry that this coming weekend will be the 2011 Shades Crest Bouldering Competition. I attended this event last year, and it was for sure a sick time. Amazing problems, chill environment, and brews all round. Wish I could be there this year!

For those of you who choose to attend ( which you should ) I hope you Enjoi

New 8a in Dayton

2011-02-06T18:20:00.000-08:00

Location: Dayton Pocket

Crew: Hugh Huffaker, Rami Annab, Aj Hanson, Andrew Kornylak, Brion Voges

Goal: Roof project on the river, just past western gold.

Today was a sick day, as we got to climb on a very cool roof project at Dayton. At first glance this problem looked reeeally hard. The crux moves revolved around awkward movements on slopey crimps, hanging off a good heel like it's your job, deadpointing to a small 3 finger pocket, and making a large toss to a 2 pad jug. Once crucial beta was refined and the subtleties were figured out, I was able to climb the boulder for its First Ascent. For those of you looking for a new hard boulder to get the psyche up, this one should be close to the top of your list!

Problem completed: Foundation, v11

Enjoi

Back to the Obed

2011-01-30T20:49:00.000-08:00

So this saturday & sunday we decided to head back to the Obed, Tn. I had heard of a really cool boulder at the Canoe Hole called Manic Aggression (v11) that James Litz fa'd some years ago. What's most notable about this awesome line is that there is a 10-12 move v11 low start beginning in the very back of the roof. I was told that James attempted to link this problem, but never returned to do so. So with this new info, i got psyched! On saturday I was able to Flash the stand start, and began working on the low immediately. I sussed out the low moves quick, gave it 3 efforts from the bottom, and decided to come back on sunday. Then on sunday on my 2nd go from the start i found myself at the stand start crux.. a toss from a small left hand edge to a nice jug edge for the right.. as i latched onto the hold, disaster struck! My 4 finger bucket turned to 3 real quick leaving me exposed and all of my weight on my bad tendon. A shot of pain ran up my forearm and I hit the ground........ "is it fucked?!" I sat down and examined it and quickly realized I had tweaked it a good bit... I called it quits, ran down to the river, and iced my finger for 20 minutes. After this we decided to roll over to Lilly Boulders to meet up with Brion Voges & Nate Draughn. Unfortunately for them though the rocks were soaking wet from condensation. So, we decided to head back over to the Canoe Hole so they could all get a session in on Manic. Then crazy enough we got to the roof and it was starting to condensate! The boys quickly got to work while i tested my tendon out on every hold i could see... "not too painful", "A little awkward on that one", "Fuck it, i'll try the stand and see if it hurts!" Little to my surprise, no pain! So i completed the stand for a second time and sat around for 30 minutes. Time crept on and the holds were starting to just get too wet to climb on. So right then I decided to give it just one ditch effort. I made it through the low crux, got half way through the upper problem and found myself staring down the hold that hurt my finger.. "Hit it with four, hit it with four.." I jumped and latched on hard, swung out, and found myself still on! I then collected myself and embarked on the 10 move v7/8 finish. Pumped as shit.. I finished it out for the First Ascent of Manic Euphoria, V13. I couldn't be happier!!

Here is a clip i threw together of a couple problems at the Canoe Hole. Splatter v9, and Manic Euphoria. I wasn't able to get the send footage of Manic due to it being quite random. So I did some moves for vid and pieced it together.

Hope you Enjoi,

2 Days in the Obed Wild & Scenic Forest

2011-01-24T13:16:00.000-08:00

This saturday & sunday Kasia, Rami and myself took a trip down to the Lilly Boulders to climb on the classics, and help shoot some photos for the up and coming guidebook by Kelly Brown. 1st day we climbed on classics, and tried a few harder boulders. I was able to climb an old project of mine Recluse v11, and got super close to climbing the 2nd ascent of James Litz' Tilted World v13 before I ripped a flapper and had to call it quits. On our 2nd day we hiked to a newer boulder field to try a really cool roof Bosley put up called Shattered Mines V10, and search for new problems. Due to the lack of time we didn't get to search around as much as i would've liked, but on the upside I did manage a flash of Shattered Mines. After this we took the hike back to the cars and went over to Lilly Boulders. We warmed up a bit more and Rami climbed the classic Mojo v9, and we hiked back down to Tilted World. I felt super tired, the flapper felt like utter shit, and a send in my mind was very unlikely. With no expectations set in, i decided to try hard and see what happens. If anything we would still have some nice shots courtesy of Mark Large. Then surprisingly on my 4th attempt from the ground i found myself at the finish! I was very psyched to climb this one, and I have to say it's one of the best of the grade, and definitely the best in the Obed.

Here's a vid I threw together, and a couple shots from Mark Large.

Rami on Mojo

Shattered Mines

Rami on Shattered Mines

Kasia on Whirlpool v8

Tilted World

Lilly Boulders 2011 from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.

Enjoi

8 days in the AR

2011-01-18T16:37:00.001-08:00

Welp, got vimeo working! Hope yall enjoi.

8 days in the AR from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.

Jweb

Arkansas Recap

2011-01-16T21:13:00.000-08:00

So i am now back in the Nooga from our 8 day adventure in the Ozark Mtns. Our time there was absolutely amazing. Brad, Rami, Nate and I hung out all week climbing classics, trying projects, and enjoying some basketball. I've definitely fallen in love with the lifestyle we lead there.... basically everyday we sleep in till 10, go climbing, come back to the barn and eat, shoot some baskets, and watch some movies. It's simply fantastic. Everyone climbed very well, and we all sent some amazing problems. I have quite a bit of footage compiled from the trip so expect a nice little vid to pop up here shortly ! Also, my finger is getting ALOT better ! My first couple of days it felt decent, then on the 3rd day i was able to climb relatively hard problems with little to no pain.... with the exception of pockets and small crimpers of course. Either way, i am psyched. Cannot wait to be 100% in the GAME !!!

Enjoi,
Jweb

Not much

2011-01-05T20:17:00.000-08:00

So it has been 40 days since i popped my tendon, and it's hard to tell if it's really getting any better. I've done everything in the book to promote healing, and have been pretty damn religious about it...... but no silver lining to the dark cloud just yet..
This weekend though I shall be traveling with some doods up to Arkansas to climb a little and relax on the ranch! There are a couple problems I would be psyched to climb on, and Im pretty amped to explore the woods a little. Other than that i'll be filming the whole trip, so there will be a few vids up for ya once I return !

Hope yall are climbing well this season,
Jweb

Hueco Video

2010-12-22T14:37:00.001-08:00

Here's a quick clip from my trip to Hueco !

Hueco Tanks 2010 from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.

Enjoi

Final Hueco

2010-12-20T11:20:00.000-08:00

So the hueco trip is coming to an end. The past few days have been really nice, just out climbing classics, and trying a couple projects. I never got a chance to make it out to Tactile Style unfortunately, but thats alright. It just leaves me with another problem to try next year. Yesterday Daniel and I went out to the East Spur Maze to try the 'Crook by the Book' Project. Which he is very close to completing, and will most likely end up as a low end 8b+. This project revolves around one very difficult move to a three finger undercling, and hard compression moves to finish. I made a couple really good attempts on the line, but grabbing the 3 finger undercling just isn't gonna happen right now with my finger the way it is.. I did almost come up with some alternate beta which involved lunging past the 3 finger pocket to a good sloper. That move is at my full extension, and very difficult. I got damn close on the move, but after 2 hours of trying i just couldn't pull it off. Again. Another for next year.

Tomorrow I fly out of El Paso at around 2:30, headin back to Chattown. From there it's christmas with the family, and off to Arkansas for a month ! Good times to come !

Enjoi,
Jweb

Another Hueco update

2010-12-18T08:37:00.000-08:00

So on thursday we all decided to truck out to East mountain. Brion quickly finished off Slashface, while Daniel decided to put some effort into the roof project just below. I tried the project a little, but my finger just wasn't having the small right hand crux hold, so i stuck to spotting. After some sussing out, daniel was able to put the whole bloc together and called it Carol of the Bones, V13. This problem is really nice, and i am very sykd to try it next year.

We then rolled over to the dragons den so Brad, Brian A, and I could attempt Full Throttle. I was lucky enough to snag an ascent rather quicly, while Brad and Brian got agonizingly close. Brian is going back out there today and i'm sure he will finish !

On friday we went back out to the East Spur Maze where Brion and Brad were sykd to try Nagual and I wanted to try to finish off Flamignon. Both brion and brad made good improvements on Nagual, but brion got SO close.... falling of basically the last moves, due to the blinding sun in his eyes. A send was definite at this point. Yet unfortunately on his next attempt he was weighting the crux hold and heard a pop in his finger. It was pretty loud.. He blew it off at first, cause he was sure it was just his knuckle, but after he took a moment to himself he realized there was stiffness in the joint. Immediately the injury sounded familiar since I had an issue in colorado with my middle knuckle that kept me from climbing for about a month. Hopefully brion's injury is not the same, and nothing serious.

On a lighter note, Brad and Brion both were able to climb the Flame shortly after, and i was able to finish off Flamignon. It felt good to finish this one, since it's looked so impossible in the past. The crux of the Flame also broke this past year, making the last move to the left hand pinch much bigger, and more low percentage. It definitely doesn't up the grade, but just makes that last couple moves a bit more insecure.

Heading out today to North Mountain to climb on some randoms. Then maybe heading out to West tomorrow to try Tactile Style.

Enjoi

First few days in the Tanks

2010-12-14T22:03:00.000-08:00

So hueco has been alright so far. My tendon is still a little messed up (obviously) therefore I've had to steer clear of the crimpy lines ( most of Hueco Tanks) On the upside though I have been able to settle on 4 cool rock climbs I am syked to try and finish off. Full Throttle, Flamignon, Coeur De leon (finished today) and a small little project sitting in the East Spur Maze.

On our second day we all made our way out to East Mtn where Voges got really close to sending Slashface. We then ran over to Full Throttle to see how it felt. My first tries on the boulder felt really good, and i felt a send could be possible. Although i grew tired rather quickly and had to settle with coming back soon in hopes of finishing it off.

Then on our 3rd climbing day (today). We went out to the East Spur Maze. Brian A made a very nice ascent of Nagual, and nearly climbed Coeur De Leon just after. Then we made our way over to Full Monty which Brad polished off nicely, and i got sykd to get on Flamignon. After around 30 minutes i had all the moves sussed out, and began giving efforts from the bottom. On my 2nd try I fell off basically the last move, and the next go ( minutes later due to time) I fell at the same spot. So with that being the case i am VERY sykd to return, and am even more syked i have found a few boulders in the Tanks that don't irritate my finger.

More soon,
Enjoi

2 from tha Creek

2010-12-08T19:48:00.000-08:00

Well time is running down here in tha ol' chatt. I am heading off to Hueco Tanks on friday for 10 days. My tendon is still pretty jacked, but it's getting better slowly.. Don't know what i'm going to be able to climb on this trip, but i don't really care. Just sykd to get out !

Here's a vid of some G's rock climbing blocs

2 from the creek from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.

Enjoi

The CCC needs your help !

2010-12-08T10:19:00.000-08:00

The North Carolina Department of Environment and Natural Resources recently released a draft of the Chimney Rock State Park Master Plan for public comment until December 13. The draft plan is available online at www.greenways.com/chimneyrock_download.html.

Chimney Rock State Park includes the classic Rumbling Bald cliffline and boulderfield. In addition, the park includes or is slated to include several lesser-known, high quality cliffs such as Ghost Town, the north side of Rumbling Bald, Eagle Rock, Cloven Cliffs, and the cliffs of the Chimney Rock attraction. Some of these outlying areas have 20+ years of climbing history.

The Chimney Rock State Park Master Plan will guide land management in the park over the next 20 years. Currently this plan makes misguided statements about the impacts of climbing and endangers the future of climbing in Hickory Nut Gorge.

The Carolina Climbers' Coalition and the Access Fund are working together to provide key comments regarding climbing access and management. Help ensure climbers' voices are heard. Urge park planners to protect current and future climbing access in Chimney Rock State Park by visiting the Access Fund website and using their letter-writing tool.

The park planners need to hear your thoughts today.
Greenways Inc
www.greenways.com
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Brion Voges Climbing The Dirty 30

2010-11-29T18:47:00.000-08:00

The Dirty 30 from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.

Enjoi

Unfortunate incident

2010-11-29T18:00:00.000-08:00

This past weekend Hugh Huffaker, Jacob Fellers, Voges, and I took another 3 day trip up to the Ozark Mountains, AR. The trip was overall pretty good. Filled with very nice weather, and good friends. Notable sends include Jacob climbing Jeffs Prow, Voges climbing PCP Traverse & Dirty 30, Hugh doing Center Splooge, and myself climbing Her Majesty, and Dirty 30 as well. Other then that Voges and I got veeerrry close on taking down Wood Grain Grippin.... until unfortunately devastation struck. On what could have been the send burn i pulled into the very ackward 3 finger edge and instantly heard a loud pop, and sharp pain shot up my forearm. I hit the pad in disbelief... and i knew instantly what had happened......... Popped tendon. This is the first time i've injured my tendon, and the only light i can see at the end of this dark tunnel is that i can comfortably climb (with control) on open handed edges. So with triple crown arriving this weekend, and Hueco Tanks on the 10th i can only hope i can climb SOMETHING ....... We will see...

Hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving weekend,
Jweb

Huge black friday sale from Element Climbing

2010-11-25T08:25:00.000-08:00

Go enjoy some of the SICKEST holds on the market for CHEAP !!!!!!

From Friday the 26th - Sunday the 28th, all holds will be 25% off. Wholesale customers who typically enjoy 30% off will get an extra 5% discount. Additionally, all purchases over $25 (in the lower 48) will receive free shipping. To get the deal, during checkout do one of the following:

If you're a general customer, enter the coupon code: BKFR25
If you're a new gym customer, enter the coupon code: BKFRGYM35
If you're an existing gym customer, the discount will be applied automatically

www.elementclimbing.com

Enjoi,
Jweb

2 From LRC

2010-11-18T22:28:00.000-08:00

Here's a new vid i threw together today of a couple lines at Little Rock City. Includes Kasia sending The New Mechanic, and me getting the FA on Electric Boogaloo Low.

Enjoi

2 from LRC from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.

Small Arkansas Recap

2010-11-16T17:43:00.000-08:00

Here recently i've been looking for some time away to relax, and take it easy. Life honestly isn't too stressful here in chatt but it's always nice to get away every once in a while and just enjoy the company of good friends in a remote area. Brion, Rami, Nate, and I decided to take a trip up to arkansas this past weekend.. and though it was short lived it provided me with peace of mind, and a renewed psych on hard boulders still left to do !

On our first day we woke up to super cloudy skies and wet ground... but surprisingly enough the rock was bone dry ! The horseshoe canyon ranch is an amazing little spot when it rains because it's probably the fastest place to dry out. With the canyon being conveniently located it is prone to get heavy winds and tons of sun. Once we realized it was all dry we decided to hike up hill to the Flash Gordon Bloc and try our luck on a couple hard classics. After we warmed up Brion and I climbed Jeff's prow and hiked around the corner to give some efforts on Anti-Hero. I was able to dispatch rather quickly while Brion focused his attention on the SUPER classic Loved by Few Hated by Many. He was able to send fast, and Nate finished off Flash Gordon. At this point the sun was falling fast so we hustled over to Wood Grain Grippin for our first round of attempts of the season. I surprised myself on this one climbing through the crux move and falling on the big throw to the pinch on my first try ! YES ! I knew i could do it ... Although on the next couple of attempts i grew way tired, and voges ended up breaking a very key foot at the start. It definitely still goes, but we were unfortunately unable to walk away with a send .....

On day 2 i woke up solo super early to go try Wood Grain once more, hoping that i could maybe squeak out a send. I felt really tired from the previous day and i couldn't even get close .... so i trudged back down the mountain and headed towards the ranch to pick up the doods and head to Fred's Cave. Nothing big happened in the cave, Rami and Nate got close on their two separate problems, Freds Cave and Buddy, which they will send surely once we return. After this the evening temps started to show, and Brion and I floated down to the invasion wall in hopes to try Lost in the Hood. The start hold was super nasty but we dug out the ish and commenced to throwing ourselves at the very odd crux first move. Instantly we both felt like we could send, but the problem was.. when were we gonna snag the first hold ? I've never tried such an odd problem where you can feel so close every time yet not send... it was almost like sticking the move revolved around luck... there was no way to be accurate and every go you found yourself in disbelief that you didn't hold on. Still confident though Brion then pulled on the wall on what was probably is 14th effort? and just stuck the first move BEAUTIFULLY ! He hit the hold open handed and as soon as i saw him lock it down i knew he had it in the bag. He continued on up the finish v8 or so and topped out for his first 8b+ ever ! So sick ! I then finished off my round of attempts getting AGONIZINGLY close and splitting my tip . I was definitely a bit bummed i didn't send but the major amounts of psych outweigh any spots of dissapointment .. I can't wait to get back to finish it off !!

On our concluding day in the AR we ran up to the Flash Gordon bloc once more so i could try the sit project to Love by Few Hated by Many. This one probably links a hard v11 into the stand start v12/13. Im not quite sure how hard that makes it in full but if i were to guess.. its around solid 8b+. Once i sussed out the bottom i gave it one good effort from the start. Feeling really close i got into the stand start and greased off violently at the big move. Feeling completely wrecked at this point i decided to call it quits and save my skin for a classic V10 Off the Rails that were gonna hit up on the way home. I can't wait to get back to the AR !!!!!!!!!!

Hope ya'll liked the vids
Enjoi

Lost in the Hood V14

2010-11-16T12:46:00.000-08:00

and #3 !

Lost in the Hood V14 from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.

Boyz in tha AR

2010-11-16T12:24:00.000-08:00

As promised.... here's video # 2 !

Enjoi

Boyz in the AR from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.

Walls of Illusion V9

2010-11-16T11:39:00.000-08:00

So this post is going to include the first of the three videos to come ! I just recently purchased an HDC TM700 from panasonic .. and i absolutely LOVE it ! The first video is of brion climbing a problem i put up called Walls of Illusion V9, and the 2 following will include 4 classics from Arkansas and Brion sending his first V14 Lost in the Hood !

Enjoi

Walls of Illusion V9 from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.

Tall Tee Complete

2010-10-29T16:26:00.001-07:00

It's so nice when amazing things happen unexpectedly ....

Tall Tee was a super difficult project that took me around 8 days of effort last year just to do the crux move ! We went out this morning with hopes of catching the good temps (which we did).. I gave the problem 2 very close efforts from the bottom, and on my third attempt i cruised to the top. After this one shutting me down for so long, and the "move" feeling so damn near impossible .. it is absolutely incredible to have climbed it today without too much effort. It's crazy when your project goes from impossible, to seemingly effortless... I hope this provides anywhere near as much inspiration to others, as it did for me. Good luck to everyone on your projects ! ... It's gonna be a good season .

Enjoi

Boone Video from Brad Weaver

2010-10-28T09:10:00.000-07:00

Spent last weekend in Boone Nc with sum friends Nate Draughn, Brad Weaver, Mike D, Rami, and Brion. Brad was there with his camera and shot some nice video. Some sick lines, and some funny fillers. Check it out !

Enjoi

3 Days in Boone from Brad Weaver on Vimeo.

t-shirt design contest

2010-10-24T20:55:00.001-07:00

So element climbing holds is hosting a t-shirt design contest ! Click on the link below to see how you can get in on it, and potentially when a bunch of free shit !

http://www.elementclimbing.com/TShirtContest.aspx

Boone, Nc

2010-10-17T19:16:00.001-07:00

Yea yea so i know it's been like 3 months or sum ish since i've posted .... but honestly not much has been up. Just training, chillin, and waiting for that beautiful fall weather to set in.

So, here's a short update for ya ... with a vid ! She includes me and brion climbing two rarely climbed James Litz blocs nestled in the mountains surrounding Boone North Carolina. Thanks to Nate Draughn for the edit.

Enjoi

Random Man and Black Crack from Nate Draughn on Vimeo.

Three from Colorado

2010-07-06T10:52:00.001-07:00

Aight .. so here's a quick clip Nate Drolet through up of a few of his favorites from our Colorado summer ! They Include: Riverside problem vfuckingfun, Unshackled V10, and Whispers of Wisdom, V10 ...

Colorado Boulders from Nathan Drolet on Vimeo.

As for me, i am back in Chattanooga chilling, resting, skating, and just finished upgrading my comcast contract so i can watch the final games of the 2010 World Cup !!
Prediction ? I think Germany could take it ... Just say'n.

Action over the next couple months is gonna be slim around here .. im pretty wrecked from the trip, and my finger is still feeling pretty fucked .. so training won't commense for atleast another couple weeks .. and that's alright.

Until next time, i'll be basking in the sweltering summer heat ... and lov'n every minute . Damn good to be home !!

Enjoi

Unshackled V10

2010-06-29T11:36:00.001-07:00

Here's a cool vid of John Gass climbing a really nice V10 at Lincoln Lake!

Unshackled the boulder problem from John Gass on Vimeo.

European Human Being

2010-06-25T23:00:00.000-07:00

Here's a clip of me climbing a very crimpy problem in Lower Chaos, RMNP called European Human Being. I spent 2 hours digging it out the previous day, and came back for the ascent.. thanks to Peter Beal for the clip..

Enjoi

European Human Being V12 RMNP from peter beal on Vimeo.

Brion Voges had a Good Day

2010-06-22T19:43:00.000-07:00

A Good Day from Brion Voges on Vimeo.

Enjoi

The new katana Lace-ups from La Sportiva

2010-06-18T18:50:00.000-07:00

So here's a really cool promotional clip for the new Katana Lace-ups from La Sportiva! These things look super sick, and I can't wait to get a pair! Sportiva as we all know is at the head of the game when it comes to providing you, the climber, with top notch climbing shoes, and excellent service.... so be sure to check these shits out!!!

Enjoi

Jade Finished

2010-06-09T00:21:00.000-07:00

Today we went back out the RMNP so I could give another round of attempts on Jade. The weather was basically awful, i still had two small split tips.. and a send seemed far from possible.... On my first attempt though i surprised myself by sticking the crux move and falling on the standstart due to frozen fingers. After this i sat around for 10 minutes trying to cool my fingers off, and keep my index from bleeding.. Eventually i decided to give it one more effort.. I pulled on feeling worse than ever... stuck the crux move... and somehow made my way to the top of the wall!! So syked!I I definately feel as if this is the hardest boulder i've ever climbed.. and i agree with Carlo's downgrade to v14. Either way, this problem is brilliant, and im really glad it is here for me to climb on..

I threw together a clip of the send.. its nothing spectacular, and there is one small editing flaw....but whatever!

Enjoi

Jade V14 from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.

Colorado 2

2010-05-27T14:44:00.000-07:00

Well, another week has passed here in CO and we've been spending our time climbing as much as we can. More recently we've made a couple trips up to Emerald Lake at the RMNP. There's still TONS of snow up there, but all the boulders are basically good to go. We spent the majority of our last day there at a really nice problem called Storm Shadow, V11, a problem I did our first day up there. Brion was able to dispatch while John and Nate spent around 3 hours trying to take down the V10 stand start. After they both got DEVASTATINGLY close they decided to call it and come back another day. ( they will crush next time ) I was then stoked to try a little problem up the hill called Hi Fi V11. This one's short and powerful, and in my opinion the crux of the problem was getting the feet set up high for the right hand throw.. and after some sussin out, i was able to finish it off.

Tomorrow we're gonna attempt the hike up to Mt. Evans.. the snow im sure is still pretty stacked so we will see if we can make it... Supposedly the Dali Bloc is completely good to go, so we're really syked to test the waters.

Here's another vid i threw together of some climbing at RMNP...

Enjoi

Colorado 2 from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.

A Day in Boulder Canyon

2010-05-16T17:27:00.000-07:00

So not too much has been going on here. The rain n snow over the past several days have left us sitting on the couch playing video games, and watchin t.v.. Luckily enough we've found a small break in the weather and we got to head out to Boulder Canyon today to do some climbing. We started out trying Chris Schulte's Free Range, but the warm weather threatened our skin so we moved on. After this we went over to Hardboiled, v11. I was able to send 1st try, and John Gass made good links of Replacement Killers, V10. Next up was another Chris Schulte special Authentic Battle Damage, V12. In the beginning i was skeptical. The sun was baking the right side of the wall and my skin felt pretty toast from trying Free Range. So i sussed out some moves while Nate and John made quick ascents of the V8 stand. Sitting around unsure if a send was feasible, i decided to give it another go. I pulled off the ground and before i knew it I was on top. This thing is definately not the best boulder in CO.. but for as much shit as it gets I was surprised on how much i enjoyed it. Compression lines like this are hard to come by and Im syked it was here for me to try. Props to Schulte on this one. I approve.

Enjoi

Brion Voges in Joe's Valley, Ut

2010-05-11T12:57:00.001-07:00

So today and tomorrow are both rest dayz for us here in Denver. Our fingers, and skin are pretty worked so the rest is most needed. On thursday we're planning on heading out to Newlin Creek just outside of Pueblo, Co to get on some area classics such as: William Shatner V12, The nickness V10, Megladon v?, and many others. The weather here is starting to look a bit grim for the next week, so hopefully escaping to Newlin will bring us good weather, and sick boulders!

Also, here's a quick clip of Brion climbing in Joe's Valley. The vid includes two classic boulders called Big Joe Left V11, and Worm Turns, V10.

Enjoi

Brion Voges in Joe's Valley from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.

Both Sides

2010-05-09T22:36:00.001-07:00

Went out today to Moraine Park in the RMNP. Goal of the day was to send a really nice v12 called Both Sides of the Spectrum. There was great success, and i was able to dispatch on my 2nd try. Tomorrow i think we're takin it easy and heading out to Morrison to climb on some randoms. This will be followed by a couple well needed rest dayz.

Here's a vid of the last couple days

Colorado 1 from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.

Enjoi

First few days in the Western States

2010-05-06T13:24:00.000-07:00

So we've been in Joe's Valley now for 3 days. Today is our much needed rest day, and we're chillin at the library studyin up on classic lines hidden up in the hills close by. Our climbing days thus far have left us syked and anxious!

On our first day Brion and I climbed the Ghost King V10, I then climbed the Porn King v10, and Nate was able to make a sick ascent of Resident Evil, V9.

On our second day Brion and I climbed Big Joe Left V11, and I made a quick ascent of The Low Left Worm Turns, v12. Also Nate flashed the super classic Wills a Fire, V6.

We're unsure on how many days we have left here. Tomorrow looks a bit warm, and saturday looks absolutely incredible up in Poudre Canyon.. sooo what to do?

Also on another note I am proud to announce that i was able to make the 3rd ascent of Suspension of Disbelief V13! We drove around 26 hours to Co, and upon our arrival the syke began to build high. We quickly got in touch with Carlo, and he and Ryan Sylven took us up to Eldorado Canyon for a quick tour. Suspension is by FAR the. best. boulder i've ever climbed, and im really syked to have climbed it. I also would like to note that my ascent was ground up. Why anyone would toprope this boulder i dunno? The line is only somewhat tall, and the landing is decent, although the possibility of blowing the last move dyno could produce some major consequences. Either way, really syked!

Also Carlo was super close on the day of my ascent, and so i was really syked to hear that he went back and finished it off with style! Dudes damn strong! So who knows whats next for him? Jade?! We'll see..

Enjoi,
Jweb

Epic Journey to Boone, NC

2010-04-19T20:00:00.001-07:00

So the 4 day trip to boone ended up to be quite a bit more entertaining then we thought..

The rig after getting rearended by a bitch goin 60

Chatt'n

The new rig

Also if that wasn't enough i ended up sick, and could hardly talk for the whole weekend.. The trip seemed to be cursed...

The First night I climbed a couple cool boulders though: Don Johnson v11, and Senderella Sit V12.

The next day we went to Grandmother with not much of an agenda. The day turned out really nice and we all did some cool problems. Drolet did Raw Meat v7, and Nate climbed the Masochist, v10. Also i was able to flash Teamwork, v10.

Day 3 was a bit slow at first due to some random ass rain! But afternoon rolled around and the sun came out renewing the syke! We packed up our shit and headed to the Linville Gorge to camp out and climb on the sickest river boulders in the states!
We arrived around 3 and quickly got to work. I made a couple cool Fa's including a sick highball arete I called Footloose Disaster v8. I then was pointed in the direction of a sick boulder called the v10 boulder. This thing has several projects littered across it, and i got syked on trying the arete. It revolves around 4 back to back hard moves to gain a really good edge with your right hand, from there you finish a 4 move v9. I was able to do every move individually but linking the boulder proved to be quite difficult. The third move was the crux for sure. Stabbing off a right hand sloper to a half pad sidepull for the left. Leaving yourself FULLY spread out on a 45 wall. I gave a few decent efforts but the pain in my fingers was just too much. Quite Discouraged I became content with the fact that i might not send, and decided to give it one more go. Pulling off the ground i felt worse then any other go, and just knew i wouldnt send. I arrived at the crux move and heard nate scream "try hard!" This ringing in my mind i bit down and tried as hard as i absolutely could. Next thing i knew i had stuck the move! I threw up the heel and made the move to the good edge and cut the feet. At this point i was in the worst pain ever.. but knowing that i could send this beatiful project gave me the syke to push through and finish! I topped out and couldn't believe it. Sitting on top of the boulder i reflected on the send, and at that moment i really understood the meanding of "try hard". This problem being not only one of the best boulders ive ever climbed, but for sure the biggest learning experience i've had in my climbing. My mind now feels stronger then ever, and i will always remember no matter how bad it hurts, or how tired your body is, if the mind is strong, you can prevail.

Day 4 we were adventurous and did alot of hiking down the river. I saw many boulders, and still can't believe the quality of this area. Nate and I climbed 2 cool v8's called Yamaha Pit Viper, and Full Power Scram. I also fa'd two cool lines I called Left Handed, v6. and Purple Brush, v9. At the end of the day we came across a small roof project that got me really syked! I started trying it and immediately fell in love with the movement and difficulty. Its only 2 moves long and in the end i got shut down... A bit bummed, I then moved on to another project to the right. It climbs low on some cool pinches and ends on a super classic v4 called A Pleasant Surprise. I called it A shitty Gift, v9. After this we decided it was time to roll. We hiked back up to camp, gathered our shit, and hiked an hour up hill.

This trip was most definately epic as hell, but in the end i felt stronger then ever both physically and mentally. Can't wait to get to Colorado! 12 days and counting!

The Project..

Thanks to Nate Drolet for the pics

Enjoi

The Now

2010-04-12T19:03:00.000-07:00

Since i've been back from boone i've been training like hell! I spent 5 days straight climbing in Boone, and came back home to 5 straight days of training. Though i've obviously been sore as shit, i can definately say im in the best shape of my life. Ive completed some "projects" in the gym that to me symbolize a new personal level. Hopefully all this hard work will pay off this summer in Co! Im really syked to get outa chatt for a while, and can't wait to just be chilln with the bro's!

The past few days ive spent trainng with brion. Yesterday kinda went like this:
I woke up and did a 20 minute p90X workout, followed by a 30 minute moonboard workout, followed by a 2 hour sesh at tba.

Today was similar, yet a bit more intense. I woke up and voges came over for a 30 minute moonboard sesh. Then a couple hours later we were at tba. We climbed for about 2 hours and then chilled out. I ate some lunch and then we did some intense campusing for about 2 hours, followed by a 150 move circuit on the jug wall. No abs today due to me still being sore from yesterday. Tomorrow is gonna be really lax. Im gonna head into tba and set some more problems, and maybe climb a few moderates.
Wedensday is a rest day and thursday Me, Nate, Brion, and Hugh are driving to Boone for the weekend! Most syked to head back to Linville Gorge! We're gonna head to another spot called Devil's Hole, though spence's ridge was dope, ive heard rumor of Devils Hole having three times as many boulders as well as projects! Can't wait!

Here's another list i've thrown together for the weekend!

Don Johnson v11
Black Crack v13
Teamwork v10
Last of the Mohicans v11
And anything and everything in the gorge!

Enjoi

Big Brick

2010-04-09T09:31:00.000-07:00

As promised here is a cool vid put together by Dalton Hilfinger. It includes Josh sending the ultra classic Pure Wonder, V8 and me on the 1st ascent of Big Brick, V11. Thanks again Dalton!

Enjoi

Linville Gorge North Carolina - Project Day from Erik Danielson on Vimeo.

Boone Recap

2010-04-04T18:03:00.000-07:00

So my time in Boone is up and im chill'n back in Chatty now. The trip was an overall success! Though i may not have climbed a couple lines i was really syked on, my time there was well worth it! As you saw earlier i left with a rather large tic list of boulders I was syked on completing. Now that i've returned the list has changed a smidge, and this is what i came home with.

Day 1
- Preferential Treatment V10
- Big Booty Judy V10
- Beasley's Face Sit V11

Day 2
- Portobello V9 Flash
- Ominous Roof V9 Flash
- Love Johnson v10

Day 3
- Comfort Arete V10 FA

Day 4
- Have Guns Keep Traveling V9 Flash

Day 5
- Pure Wonder V8
- Now and Zen V10 2nd asc.
- Double Barrel V10 FA
- Big Brick V11 FA
- The Wataugan V12 FA

On day 5 we went to a really sick area called Spence's Ridge in the Linville Gorge. This is a new area to me, and i was MOST syked to check out what it had to offer. After the 40 minute hike down to the river we were completely surrounded by rock! We warmed up at a cool boulder called The Patio Roof and I instantly got syked on a project that climbs straight out the center. Me, Rami and Nate worked out sum beta and I was able to finish it off calling it Big Brick, V11. Our bud Dalton got sum video, so hopefully we'll see that soon!

After this we walked down to one of the sickest roofs ive ever seen. And to top it all off there was a project coming straight out the middle dubbed the Glory Roof Project. The crux of this one revolved around a big ass swing from a fully stretched out position. After that you finish on a very insecure v9 to an easy mantle. Nate and I worked out the beta for a while and after almost giving up.. the crux beta finally clicked. I started to throw my shoes on and the wind picked up. Next go i held the swing and fell off the finish. Syked as shit i sat down, relaxed, and sent. I decided to call this boulder "The Wataugan" V12.. naming it after its founder Mike Stam. Before heading out to the gorge i watched a rad clip of him getting super close on it, and shortly after he had a devastating bicep injury which ultimately kept him from sending the problem. Props most definately goes out to him!

Then to finish off the day we all went over to try Pure Wonder, V8. Nate, Josh, and I all sent and we started trying an unrepeated Andrew Gearing Problem called Now and Zen, V10. I was able to finish, while nate got super close! Also, earlier in the day Josh spoted a new line on the now and zen boulder that was just screaming to be climbed!! We all worked out some beta and in the end i was able to complete the masterpiece! Very syked to say the least, i think this one could be one of my favorite boulders i've ever done. It climbs around 15 moves on rad pinches and crimps. On my last go of the day feeling tired as shit i was able to send. Which came as a huge surprise to me, so i couldn't have been happier. After this we hiked our asses out straight up hill for close to an hour. I booked it out, and just about threw up. My cardio is most definately not on its A game!

All in all the trip to Boone was sick good. I really enjoyed chill'n with Nate and Rami. Those mother fuckers are crazy as shit! Also enjoyed the company of the others who live with Nate. Theres a sick crew up there in Boone, and to me they symbolize what i think climbing should be.(Chill, and based on pure enjoyment of climbing some random rock) Thanks to everyone who showed me around, I can't wait to get back!

Here's a Vid Nate threw together of me sending The Wataugan! Thanks bro.

The Wataugan(V12) from Nate Draughn on Vimeo.

Enjoi

Boone Update

2010-03-31T18:42:00.000-07:00

So im chillin here in Boone with Nate and Rami. The trip thus far has been nice, and somewhat productive! Two days done and i've been able to climb some cool problems! Boone has a really nice concentration of classic lines ranging from easy to pretty damn hard, so i've had plenty to keep my busy! As weather goes its been pretty warm. Our first day was really nice. Mid 50s with high winds.. But today was in the high 60s and felt warm as hell! The rest of the week looks hot as well with days sitting in the high 70s.. So we'll see how the rest of the trip goes! Tomorrow we're gonna rest, and friday we're planning on heading out to Blowing Rock super early in hopes that Rami can finish off Portobello! Word.

Here's a list of some boulders i've climbed so far:

Preferential Treatment
Big Booty Judy
Beasley's Face Sit
Love Johnson
Ominous Roof
Portobello

Also Nate shot some vid of me climbing Preferential Treatment.

Check it!

http://natedraughn.louderthan11.com/?p=1613

Enjoi

Stayin Syked

2010-03-24T21:50:00.001-07:00

Wow, been a while since i've updated. Honestly not much has been going on. The weather here in Chatty has gotten a bit on the warm side so i've been spending the majority of my time indoors training. I've never been big on training but with our trip to Colorado coming up in about a month i've been most syked to step it up! Also to help me out with my training i've purchased a Moon Hangboard! If this doesn't improve my crimp strength, i dont know what will!!

Today for a change of scenery i went out sport climbing to try my luck on Soco. Interestingly enough i felt pretty good on the route, considering I haven't done any endurance training in almost a year.. On my first go i made it half way up the route feeling quite pumped and out of touch.. but my 2nd burn was much better! I basically made it to the last crux section and fell clipping the 2nd to last bolt! From here i quickly pulled up the rope and got on for the one hang! Syked to head out on saturday and try to finish it off! Brad Weaver was also out there today and is making QUICK work of the route! He fell twice on the last section, and will DEFINATELY crush the rig on saturday! Syked to work on this thing with him! Puts the whole realm of sport climbing together for me.

Also, i am most syked on the upcoming week! I've got a hold of Nate Draughn and Rami out in the Boone, NC. This next week is their spring break so they're looking to spend it climbing! So with the weather looking DAMN good there for the whole week I am gonna pack up and head that way and see what we can get done!! SYKED!

Here's a small ticlist i've thrown together to keep me motivated!

- Engine Bloc Project
- Big Black Crack
- Funny Bone
- Kratos
- Beasley's Face Sit
- Don Johnson
- Love Johnson
- Preferential Treatment
- Movement on Stone
- Big Booty Judy
- Temporal Analogs of Paradise
- Atomic Melvin Sit project

Enjoi!

Bishop 3

2010-03-16T15:12:00.000-07:00

So we're currently back in the Nooga! Im syked to be home. Rest dayz are much needed right now. I have three splits and bruised tips so those need time to heal. Plans for the future include Training for Colorado in early may, and training for Soco. My endurance right now im sure is complete shit so there is major work to be done!

I know i never finished recapping the trip so here is a quick look into our last 3 days.

Friday as planned we headed out to try Spectre. The problem was not completed but i felt agonizingly close on the crux move and feel as if we had more time i could maybe put it together. Oh well. Another one for next year. Prior to that i ran up some classic highballs! Suspended in Silence, v5. and the classic v6 to the left. (dunno the name).ULTRA CLASSIC!! After this we went over to the Sads. Jacob and Kasia were syked on a couple climbs and Voges and I were syked on a Problem called Shazam Sit, v9/10. I was able to send and Jacob and Kasia got REALLY close on Pow Pow, V8. I finished the day trying to run up some classics. Which Included: Pow Pow, v8. Los Locos, V7, and Rio's Crack, v6. With no thought to the next day i trashed my skin. Three Bruised tips, and three split tips.... no bueno..

Saturday we ran up to the Buttermilks for what ended up a Balln ass day for Brion! I was basically thrashed but i decided to try hard with him. He was syked to try the Mandala SDS, V13. Theres was a slew of hard climbers attempting the line so we thought what the hell, and jumped in. I was able to link the sit into the stand a few times but wasnt able to do the higher crux with the amount of tape required to keep my fingers in tact.. I basically rolled off the high edge, splitting the tape in half, and my finger. Meanwhile brion was attempting the bottom, but couldn't seem to link into the stand. I sat there taking my shoes off thinking " damn, if he just does the bottom he won't fall off the top" And not to my surprise, next go, the boy was on top!
Then, as if that wasn't enough, Voges decided he had some extra skin and energy by hiking up Direction V13 in under an hour!
Sickness, i know. i know!

And at last Sunday arrived. I was laughing about how bad my skin was, and Voges was just about in the same boat. We hiked up to Xaviers Roof, V11. This was Brions last main climb on his list so he was determined to top it off right. He sent the line in three tries and we bounced. To finish the day we dropped Issabelle, Jacob, Brion, and Joe Beth off at the Happies to meet up with Janitor Stankins. Then kasia and I proceeded to the Buttermilks to enjoy the sun and climb with Cali Locals Tim, and Dan. Not much happened. Just some more skin shredd'n and a couple moderate classics. The day ended and we hiked out tired, and ready for home! Trip over, and i already can't wait for next year!!!

Filming on this trip was definately at a minimum. Sorry to those of you who were syked on watching a few crappy/ poorly edited flics of mine! Seemed our main focus was just on climbing and hanging out. Plus we were very absent minded about charging the damn thing.. oh well.

Anyway, here is one vid i've managed to throw together. In includes Mr. Voges crushing a few of them buttermilk classics!

Enjoi

Bishop, Ca from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.

More Bishop

2010-03-11T16:54:00.001-08:00

So a few more days are up here in Bishop. I unfortunately had to miss one day of climbing due to fluid build up in my left knee..?? Don't know what brought that on, but the rest of the trip was looking iffy.. Luckily enough i woke up yesterday pissed off and said fuck it im climbing anyway. Warming up proved hard, but an hour into it, along with a few pills i was good to go! We started off at the Carter boulder where things got done! Kasia and Issabelle sent the classic Seven Spanish Angels, V7. Me and Brion were able to complete A Scanner Darkly, V12. And kasia also ran up Get Carter, V7.

Temps were feeling ripe so then we decided to bust over to the Beehive area to try our luck on The Swarm. This one proved to be a very difficult crimp problem basically revolving around one move. My skin was already split on two tips so around 20 minutes was about all i had till i was toast! I definately had a few really nice goes where i felt as if it could get done, but time was ticking. Guess it'll have to wait till next year..

On the way out we decided to go check out A form Destroyer, V12. This ones just a small three move power boulder, that finishes on a nice tall slabby finish. I had seen vids of this line ever since i started climbing so needless to say my syke ran high. Chalking up i knew all the beta, and just pulled on a fired it first try! It always feels really good to see a problem for so long, and finally be able to come try it. Plus theres always the added bonus of flashing hard boulders. :)

Today is another rest day so we're just chillin. We sat in the hot springs for a bit..saw some old naked dudes... And now we just ate some food at a sick good local deli. My skin is definately in need of more rest but tomorrow we will head out early for our first round of attempts on Spectre!

Also Chattown oldie Ronnie Jenkins is gonna be driving in tomorrow night from his new home here in Cali. So it'll be cool to see a familiar face!

Enjoi

Bishop update

2010-03-08T11:36:00.000-08:00

So today is our first rest day here in bishop. So far the weather has been nice and climbing has been great! On our first day we Arrived at the peabodys to find it quite cold, and snowing. We quickly warmed up and all ran up the ultra classic high plains drifter. After this voges and I were syked to try the buttermilker. And with some quick work we both sent the stand. Then it was off to the mandala for voges to give is long awaited flash attempt. I first wanna start off by saying that this boulder was built for brion! And in no time at all he was hiking the crux in wat looked like around v5. And topped out with enough syke and energy to probably down climb the damn thing. For all of you interested in brions take on the problem/ grade/ start dilema. Go check his blog at www.brionvoges.blogspot.com.

On our second day we decided to run back over to the buttermilker to try and polish off the sit start. We both gave a couple nice efforts falling off the last move. Then I was able to dispatch with brion following right behind. Then to finish off the day we ran over to the happies where everyone got a problem done. To speed things up here's a small list!

Jacob, issabelle, and kasia did gleamer v6
voges sent toxic avenger v9/10. And flashed acid wash v9/10.
And I climbed a newish line called kill onsight v12.

So like I said were resting today. Skin is feeling pretty decent so tomorrow were heading out to try the swarm, and spectre. Big day, I know.. Haha. Wish us luck, were gonna need it!

Enjoi

Plans

2010-02-26T21:21:00.000-08:00

Yesterday Voges and I ran out to Alabama so he could try and complete Skeletor. The thing spit him off for a while, but in the end he had the last laugh! This one being his complete anti-style, i believe he has hit a new level in his climbing. After this our buddy Alex M ran us over to the newly opened sport/bouldering area "Steele". We didn't get to see much but what we did it see was really good. Voges and I both did a cool highball called Reconciliation. HIGHLY recommended! Then we finished off with a new line just to the left that i called Steel Reserve. It starts on two rad opposing side pulls and traverses right to left across the gorgeous face. Go check it out!

Tomorrow we're gonna be heading to the Moss Rock Bouldering competition! Should be a rad time! Also it's gonna be endurance format so we shall see how I do. Honestly syked on the format, cause more fitness is DEFINATELY what i need right now.
If you need some more info on the comp check out http://shadescrestshowdown.blogspot.com/

And on another note i am SO syked to announce that we are heading to Bishop next friday!! Words can't even describe the syke we got, and shit is gonna get DONE!! Voges specifically is going to own this place. It hosts some of the hardest boulders, that are perfectly in his style. Kids gonna blow up in about 14 days!!

Here's a small tic list i've throw together for the trip

-Buttermilker ( original start )
-Mandala SDS
-Direction
-Goldfish Trombone
-Kill Onsight
-The Swarm
-Spectre
-Fight Club

Also here's a clip of Voges' Day in Bama

Voges in alabama from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.

Immortal Technique

2010-02-23T23:02:00.000-08:00

Today Brion and I went out to LRC to find the air thick and damp.. Tall Tee felt like trash so we went over to this supposed proj sitting right behind Robbin the Toothfairy. It's a one move problem off two sharp crimps and a bad smear. You basically have to do a thrutchy deadpoint into a crystal covered slot.. no bueno.. Anyway, Brion dispatched and i stuck the crux move and somehow punted off the last little move to the jug. FUCK. After this it went to shit.. My last effort i pulled off the ground and dry fired of the crimps mid move(split tip) and ended up 5 ft from the boulder on my head. I was pissed.. to say the least. Voges named the bloc Disparate Impact, v10. Well Done!
So then with hopes of some redemption we decided to take a hike out the north chic to find a boulder problem James Litz put up called Immortal Technique, v9. We hiked for a minute and ended up jumping the flooded creek in incredible fashion to get to the boulder. Syke was renewed and Voges and I both sent, while Nate Drolet made some sick headway and will send next time for sure! Day was over and despite the split tip, and the bump on the head, i had a good time! Plus the best way to top off a day is Mojo Burritio and a gym sesh with the homies!

Here's Voges sending Immortal Technique

Enjoi

Brion Voges climbing Immortal Technique v9 from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.

Yet another quickee!

2010-02-21T18:36:00.000-08:00

Today we went rockclimbing again. Crew consisted of Me, Brion Voges, Hugh Huffaker, and Nathan Drolet. Everyone climbed really well and there were some notable sendz! Voges quickly got the 2nd ascent of my problem "Big Mac" V9, and Hugh climbed the classic "babe" v8 with the quickness. After this Voges climbed the 4th ascent of The Bosnian, V10. I got video of the send but the footage is awful. I basically got the camera out just in time for the send. Whatever, i threw together a quick clip anyhow. Check below! Also to finish the day we went further down the road to try a project sit start to Bubba Bean. After some sussing out of the moves i was able to complete the problem! It felt really stretched out and i wouldn't think anyone under 5'10 could do this boulder.. unless your just a complete monster! Anyway, i thought it was around v10 and i called it Bubba Gump.
Tomorrow is a rest day, and tuesday i am going out for what hopefully will be my last round of attempts on Tall Tee!!

Enjoi

Brion Voges and The Bosnian from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.

A Quickee!

2010-02-19T23:17:00.000-08:00

Aight so today was actually dry!!!! Voges, Joe Beth, Jacob and I ran out to Dayton for a nice sesh. Voges was syked to try his hand on Power Patches low, v11 which he crushed quickly for the 3rd ascent! I was then syked on trying the project traverse into Hippy Culture on the 45. Feeling much better on crimps i was able to complete the line on my 2nd go! Thank god, cause its a sharp one. It is now called Hippy Funeral, and probably clocks in around v10. After this we ran up the trail with little day light so Voges could snag the 2nd ascent on my problem Oreo, V9.
Very good day, and from the what the forecast shows we should have more sunshine to come!

Here are 2 new vids for ya!

Enjoi

Day at Dayton, Tn from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.

Creek Footy from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.

ABS Nationalz n ish

2010-02-15T19:49:00.000-08:00

So im back now from the abs nationals in VA. The comp overall was fantastic! The setting was incredible, and the scene was hype! I ended up placing 7th out of the 19 that went to Finals! Not too bad, though i felt as if i could have done much better. Ah well, thats how it goes.

On another note, i am back in the nooga!!! The weather is a little iffy right now, which is a bummer, but i soon see a break in the clouds, and projects are gonna get done! Tomorrow i am going to be heading up to LRC with friends Chaz Warren, and Jacob Fellers. Chaz is super close on White Face, and i have some business to attend to with the Tall Tee Proj, and Barndoor! Really syked! Wish us luck!

For those interested here are the Final Results from the comp.
1 Daniel Woods
2 Matt Bosley
3 Robert D'Anastasio
4 Zach Lerner
5 Magnus Mitboe
6 Adam Markert
7 Jimmy Webb
8 Paul Robinson
9 Gabor Szekely
10 Carlo Traversi
11 Vasya Vorotnikov
12 Ian Dory
13 Alex Johnson
14 Kyle Owen
15 Ryan Olson
16 Julian Bautista
17 Joshua Levin
18 Paul Wallace

Enjoi

Abs Qualifiers

2010-02-12T20:48:00.000-08:00

So qualifiers are now over. Im pretty stoked on how i climbed today! I was able to flash the first 4 problems and zoned on the last two, which puts me in 4th place going into finals!! Congratulations to everyone who came out today, and good luck to all the finalist!

Finalist:

18. Ryan Olson

17. Zach Lerner

16. Erik Paulsen

15. Kyle Owen

14. Joshua Levin

13. Paul Wallace

12. Alex Johnson

11. Matt Bosley

10. Adam Markert

9. Gabor Szekely

8. CArlo Traversi

7. Julian Bautista

6. Rob D'Anastasio

5 .Jimmy Webb

4. Magnus Mitboe

3. DAniel Woods

2. Vasya Vortnikov

1. Paul Robinson

Also here is a short clip of me doing 3 of the 6 qualifying boulders! Much thanks goes out to Issabelle Faus for her terrific camera work!!

Enjoi

2010 ABS Qualifiers from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.

Some southern cook'n!

2010-02-11T21:47:00.000-08:00

So the vid of me, Brion and Brad climbing round the south is finally up on deadpoint for you viewing pleasure! The video in my opinion turned out really well, considering my goofy ass rambling.. Hope you guys enjoy it! Thanks again Brant!!

http://www.deadpointmag.com/videos/watch/jimmy-webb-talks-about-souths-strongest

Daniel Woods and the La Sportiva Solutions

2010-02-10T20:28:00.000-08:00

So here's a cool clip that homie Joe Kinder shot my way of Daniel Woods climbing in Gorges Du Loup in the South of France! In the vid he chats about the La Sportiva Solutions and why they are his all time favorite climbing shoe! Definately dope work from Joe, can't wait to get my pair in the mail!!!

Enjoi

- Joe Kinder ( www.joekindkid.com )

"This content was shot in the Gorges Du Loup, which is in the South of France. It is a great summer spot with the beach near, a beautiful gorge, and some test-pieces that kept us busy for a month and a half.

Daniel impressed all of us, including the locals with his fanaticism and efforts he put in each day. He would try one 9a and immediately after run over to jump on an 8c+, and then 20 minutes after that he would attempt to onsight an 8b! It was one of my favorite times in Europe this year and mainly due to hanging out and climbing with Daniel.

He stands by his statements in the video and believes that the Solution is the best shoe ever made and he uses it for everything.

The edits were done over the past few weeks. I find editing great for the rest days where you can be productive and still incorporate what I love more than anything... climbing. "

Daniel Woods Loves the Solution from La Sportiva on Vimeo.

The Bosnian

2010-02-08T21:49:00.000-08:00

Things around here have been a little uneventful i know. Mainly because the weather the past couple weeks has been complete shit! No worries though! The past couple days i've made it out and sampled some of the best sandstone near chattanooga. Today especially was a nice day to be out! Me, Kasia and Jacob headed out to a spot just down the road. I had my sights set on the 3rd ascent of James Litz' "The Bosnian" After a fun warm up i started trying this lowball project. Felt hard but i figured out some trickery and she went. Called it Big Mac, V9 or so. Then we hustled down the road to try the bosnian before it got too late. At first a send was looking unlikely. but then i figured out the ackward first move and just had the top to deal with. I then started from a stand start to scope out the top, and soon found out that the top sloping rail was drenched!! A bit bummed, i decided to give it one solid effort from the bottom. Easily enough i made it through the lower crux and stuck the large move to the crimp and just went for it! I made a large move to the lip and had to cut my feet on the wetness, looking down at the pads i coulda sworn i was coming off. But i managed, and went to the top!! Very Syked to finish this line, and in my opinion it is one of the best in the Nooga!

Here's a little sumthin

The Bosnian from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.

Competition #1 results

2010-02-03T19:48:00.000-08:00

So the first leg of the Tennessee boulder bash is finished, and the competition is lookin stiff in each category!

RESULTS

Beginner
1st- Grayson McConnell 947
2nd- Anna Fox 924
3rd- Liz Lawrence 854
4th- Derik Turk 757
5th- Peter Turk 742

Intermediate
1st- Joseph Ezell 2594
2nd- Elliott Brown 2573
3rd- Jordan White 2203
4th- Travis Hitchcock 2123
5th- Billy Brown 2106

Advanced
1st- Josh Randolph 2550
2nd- Kit Buckley 2520
3rd- Andrew Clark 1289

Thanks to everyone who came out! And we hope to see ya again at the next comp!

Enjoi

TBA Bouldering Series

2010-01-31T21:57:00.000-08:00

Aight so those of you may know about the up and coming TBA bouldering competition, but for those of you who dont.. here's the low down!!!

-Beta-
The "Triple Bouldering Bash" is going to be made up of 3 competitions over the next 3 months. First comp being this wednesday February 3rd, second being on March 3rd, and the third being on April 7th. Also there are gonna be cash purses at the third comp for the overall winners in each category!!

-Competition Format-
So theres gonna be 12 problems, and each hold is going to be worth a certain point value. Also your only gonna be allowed 10 tries per problem.. So make your efforts count!!!

Also be sure to bring some extra dough to purchase some raffle tickets! We're gonna have some sick ish to raffle off thanks to the comps sponsors, and we's gonna get rid of it all!!

Here is a list of the sponsors so far!

www.lasportiva.com
www.metoliusclimbing.com
www.organicclimbing.com
www.verveclimbing.com
www.evolvesports.com
www.revolutionclimbing.com
www.worldcupclimbing.com
www.soillholds.com
www.jtreelife.com
www.julbousa.com

Hope you cats are syked on this shit! We're cleaning/setting the next few days, and its been a minute since ive sat down and set so these problems are guaranteed to be dope!!!!

Hope to see ya there!

Enjoi

Mega Man Second Ascent

2010-01-30T13:23:00.000-08:00

So a few days ago we traveled out to alabama so Brion could try and complete the 2nd ascent of my problem Mega Man, V11. Which he did, in just a few tries. Also before that he managed a very casual flash of Hustle and Flow, V10! Very sick!
Earlier that day I was able to make the First Ascent of a very powerful stand start arete I called Chain Slang, V10. Brad and I had tried the arete a couple days prior and was basically getting shutdown. Coming back the weather was a bit nicer/drier, and I was able to hook it up in just a couple of goes! For a one move power bloc, i'd say this one isn't half bad!

Here's a video Nate Draughn threw together of our day there!

Chain Slang and Hustle & Flow(v10) from Nate Draughn on Vimeo.

And here is a quick clip of Brion's ascent of Mega Man

Mega Man V11 from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.

Enjoi

Good stuff coming and going

2010-01-29T17:49:00.000-08:00

So i just received word from our " Southern Legend" Adam Henry that there will be 2 very sick bouldering competitions coming up in the next couple months.

One comp being at Shades Crest boulder field "Moss Rock" in Hoover, Alabama. Held on February 27th.
And the 2nd comp is at HP40 on March 5-6th.

From what i can tell these shits are gonna be a blast!! With free lunch, pebble wrestl'n, and around 3,000 billz in cash prizes, everyone's gonna have a good time! So mark your calendars and tell your friends!!! Also be sure to check out two sites Adam has thrown together to keep you up to date on the comps!

http://shadescrestshowdown.blogspot.com/
http://horsepensrocks.blogspot.com/

Aight so on another note, the past few days i've been filming with Brad Weaver, and Brion Voges for an up and coming short produced by Brant Hawkins of Projekt Media. Though our timeframe was a bit short we we're able to get some quality lines for your viewing pleasure. Brion climbed The Law, v11, Brad climbed Lord of the Dance, v11, and I climbed Western Gold, V11. All three of these lines i think stand out in the south as some of the best in the country! So it will be nice to see these three put out for you to check out in that high quality, sickly edited, HD!!! Big thanks to Brant for shooting this thang, and I hope to work with him again in the very near future!

Be sure to check Brants site! Shit ain't no joke!!!
http://www.projekt-media.com/

Aaaannnd on ANOTHER note! Us three went out on the creek the other day to scope out a sick undone crimp line. And in about an hour or so we walked away with Southern Slang V11. Brad made quick work on the FA, and Me and Voges followed close behind with the 2nd and 3rd ascents! Definately a dope time working out a project with these boys. I look forward to more of this in the future. So get used to it!!!!!!

PEACE,
JWEB

La Sportiva

2010-01-23T20:36:00.000-08:00

So today was a beautiful, windy, and very much dry day here in the South! A crew of us five took off towards Alabama with high hopes and fresh skin. The Day over all was sick, BClev crushed a few v9's, and I was able to get the FA of a cool v8 I called 50 Words for Crazy. Brad, Nate Draughn, and Drolet also followed behind quickly with the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th ascents! BAWSE! Brad also went on to do Underworld, v10, Dog Laudnum v10, and Hustle and Flow, v10. GOOD DAY!!

And now, I would like to focus directly on a very strong athlete i have come to know more and more over the past few months.. La Sportiva Athlete Brad Weaver. Brad has been known in the climbing world as a very good route climber. With sick ascents of almost every hard route in the Red River Gorge, and a slew of others across the states! Many of us round here started to wonder if this kid could actually boulder hard? Or if he just had the ability to hold on to jugs for 2 hours? Ha. Well, over the past few months i would like to say this kid can pull hard!! Almost every time i hear the kids going out, he's sending something! Recently, brad has made quick ascents of classics like The Shield v12, The Chattanoogan V12, Testify V12, The anti-hero V12, One Inch Pinch, V12 and the list goes on, and on. This being his first season he's dedicated to bouldering, who knows whats to come outa this kid?!! Also, be sure to check out homies blog!!

http://b-weaver.blogspot.com/

Also to add to my rambling.. some of you may know i am now an official La Sportiva athlete! I have to say this has always been a dream of mine. La Sportiva DEFINATELY makes the best shoes on the market, and i've always been a huge fan! My first kicks i ordered were the Muira VS, and the Speedsters! The Muira VS are easily my favorite shoe at the moment. With a high performance toe box and a suction cup heel, this shoe fits me like a glove!! And though i haven't had the chance to break in the Speedsters, i feel as if this one will be my favorite. Like its older brother the mantras, i LOVE slip ons!!!!

Aight enough of this shit, here's a clip of Brad's day in the woods!!

BUY LA SPORTIVA SHOES!!!!!!!!!!!!!
http://www.lasportiva.com/

Enjoi

La Sportiva athlete Brad Weaver from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.

Holy Video

2010-01-20T21:58:00.000-08:00

As promised, here is a small clip from our time in Southern Illinois!

Enjoi

Untitled from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.

SO ILL Recap

2010-01-19T23:14:00.000-08:00

What up,

So we're back fromour weekend in Southern Illinois.. Not much eventful went down, except for the rain. Friday we hiked up to the Holy Boulders to find a few dry lines, and a few decently dry lines. We all said fuck it and started throwing ourselves at this v9 called Trillium. I was somehow able to come away with a send. Dunno how..
Next day was much nicer! The sun was a out and it was a little warmer. We quickly warmed up and Voges ran up Trillium. Then we moved on to Michael Jordan V11. This line takes on a proud 15 ft bloc up amazing slopers, and finishes on a large crimp move to the lip. We all gave it some sick efforts and in the end i was able to hook it up! Voges also came VERY close, falling off the mantel! SCARY! After this Brad and Voges was syked on trying the New Zero, so Nate and I ran over to this cool problem called Worm's Way, v9. I was able to send, and nate made some nice headway, doing all the moves!
Day 3 was basically BLAH. We hiked up again to the Holy's and it was HAAAWWWTT!!! Me and Kasia did this v6 thing. Dunno what its called. And then i flailed some on a couple problems baking in the sun.
DONE!

Aight so here's a video of today. Voges and I hiked out to Cumberland to get on Bosley's new addition to the seven eleven roof, "Big Gulp" v11. Finding it wet was a bit unmotivating but we's too fuckin syked!!! We both crushed quickly and I got some vid of Voges. SO ILL vid soon!

Enjoi

Big Gulp from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.

Some syke!

2010-01-14T20:29:00.000-08:00

Being sick today has given me a lot of time to do some web surfin!! So for you entertainment pleasure here are a few choice vids of Southern Illinois to get you syked!

Video 1 is from Jon Glassbergs massive collection! This one includes Brion Voges doing Shadow of a Man, V5. Nate doing Jungle Book, V8. and Jon G crushing the 4th ascent of The New Zero, V13. Be sure to check Jon and Nate Draughns blog for up to date climbing and crazy antics!
http://jonglassberg.louderthan11.com/
http://natedraughn.louderthan11.com/

The Holy Boulders in Southern Illinois from Jon Glassberg on Vimeo.

Video 2 is of Jason Kehl doing the first ascent of Year of the Renegade, v12. Also check out Jason's site at www.cryptochild.com . Shit's dope!!

Year of the Renegade from Cryptochild on Vimeo.

and Video 3, 4, and 5 are some So iLL oldies!! Includes just a bunch of good shit!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DXSMvReETj8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sz72ZB7Eo5Q&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y1cGseVcG2A&feature=related

ENJOI

I DID THE MOVE!!

2010-01-13T19:38:00.001-08:00

I DID THE MOVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! HAA!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Yup! Today i did "the move" on Tall Tee first try! So syked! Immediately following this I started making ground up attempts. I had a few goes where i thought i was going to send, but no dice... NEXT TIME!!!!
The day then went on well with some strong sends!
Brad Weaver finished off Power of Amida, V10
Senya cruised up Biggie Extention, V12
I was able to do Bert (biggie extention reverse traverse) v11 and made some sick improvement on the Barn Door Project!

On another note we're heading to So ILL this weekend in hopes of some good weather.
High on the list of things to do are Year of the Renegade, v12, Michael Jordan V12, Ring of Fire v10, Recluse v9/10, and the Seam Project.

Until then,
Enjoi

Fire in the Mountains

2010-01-11T20:01:00.000-08:00

Lack of updates i know. So here i am now with two new vids. One you may have already seen, and one i put together 5 minutes ago.

1st vid is of our day at hp40 last week. Includes Ben Tsui climbing a classic v3, the orca. And Voges cruising the 2nd ascent of Matchmaker, v11.

2nd vid is of today at rocktown. Includes Nate crushing Speculum V9. And me on the FA of Fire in the Mountains, v12.

So, today at rocktown. Starting off the day i felt weak and tired from this past weekends comp in GVILLE. Which was a success! I took first in open men, and Kasia took 2nd behind our good friend Kate Reese. Chaz also was able to take third in Advanced.. therefore our total cash purse for the ride home was 1600 billz and some free sportivas!!

But yea today was nice. A little cold, and warming up seemed a bit difficult... as usual. After warming up Voges and I spotted a one move sitsart to the Orb Area mantle. Starting on two holds spread out, and does the first move off a sketchy heel hook to the jug on the 6. We tried and tried and finally made the heel stay! We dubbed the new line Gumption, V10.
After this we were off to Speculum. Nate had worked out the moves last trip, and was determined on taking it down. Which he did. DUH! BOY IS STOUT!!!!
Then later on in the day we made our way to the Choctaw bloc. There was a project on this wall that i tried briefly last year. The problem starts same as choctaw sundial and goes straight up the face, linking over into the finishing moves on Choctaw. This problem may not be the BEST problem out there, but by far not the worst. With back to back crux moves, and bunchy feet this one packed a solid punch! Voges and I worked out some moves, and i started making some links! On what could have been my final try, i stuck the crux hold and literally fought my way to the top. I called this one Fire in the Mountains.. mainly because it resembles the fight it took to take it down. Im not quite sure on the grade.. I called it v12 but it could potentially be easier. I am in pain, and i split a tip, with tape on....

Until next time, Enjoi!

2 from HP from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.

Rocktown 2 from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.

Recent Activity

2010-01-03T18:57:00.000-08:00

So Nate and Rami's Trip is coming to an end. Last night Nate drove Rami to Atlanta to meet up with his ride back home to Raleigh, NC.. and today I took Nate out to a couple remote areas close by. Feeling trashed from days prior nate struggled to keep it together attempting Deliverance, V10. He easily sussed out all the moves, but was unable to finish..... .this time.

After this we hopped in the car and drove half a mile up the road to check out a project on the Lumberjack Bloc. Recently i must say i've been most syked on projects. There's hundreds of incredible problems here in the south, and just as many projects waiting to be done. With new problems around like The boss, Watch your back, and Jeremys new link up on the shield boulder we're all waiting for the big 8B to pop up. And to be honest it could happen any day now. We're all aware of the Tall Tee project at Little Rock City.. which is most definately in the 8B range. and now I have another project that i believe is sitting right there next to it. This project, similar to Tall Tee, revolves around 1 move. A full span throw from a half pad incut, and a three finger pocket to a terrible sloper. After this you finish up the arete on a very nice v8. I tried the problem repeatedly today and got SOO close.. but in the end i was bleeding out of 3 fingers. Bummed of course.. i walked away inspired and syked to return!

On another note Kasia and I are going to be driving to Gainesville, FL this weekend for a huge competition at the Gainesville Rock Gym. I believe there is a massive cash purse available for Mens and Womens divisions, so im hoping all my climbing recently will pay off!! It should be a real good time so wish me luck!

Aight so here are 2 vids for ya!

First one is the 2nd video from our Hueco trip.
Includes Voges sending Diabolique 8B.

And the other is from our last few days of climbing.
Includes Voges getting the 2nd ascents of Bread Loaf Factory Low, and The Boss.

ENJOI

Hueco 2 from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.

A Couple Southerners from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.

A Day in Alabama

2010-01-01T16:50:00.000-08:00

Today we all took off to Alabama. All syked from a couple days of rest it was destine to be a good day. I had my eyes set on "the room project" which i tried quite a bit last season. It involves sick moderate arete climbing to start, and a desperate high foot barn door slab to finish! Voges and I sat down and quickly got to work. We were both getting owned on the last moves, and a send seemed very unlikely.. I sat down discouraged and said the famous words.. "one more go." All of a sudden i had a renewed focus, and went up the boulder seemingly effortless! Finding myself at the top i basically flipped out. This was by far one of the best feelings i've had in a while, and was stupid syked to have finished it. Now she is called " The Boss" V11.
Meanwhile Nate grabbed 2 pads and ran down to Squeeze Box, v8 for a quick dispatch! Nice work!
On an earlier note, we started off the day with Rami sending Big Poppa V8. Then we strolled over to a supposed project, that involves a weird undercling match and finishes on a super tension move out left to a sidepull. We all gave it some efforts and tried figuring out the beta.. and in the end i was able to finish! Calling it Innovation, v9. This one is very good and MUCH harder than it looks. Nate should have vid up soon. So with it getting later we hiked back so Nate could try Bread Loaf Factory Low, v10. He had some sick goes, but no send. We're gonna head back out there tomorrow so he and Voges can have some redemption!

For now here is a clip that includes me on the FA of Bread Loaf Factory Low V10
http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=65234667616&subj=636327616

Enjoi

Rocktown

2009-12-29T22:25:00.000-08:00

So today was a day at rocktown for me, kash, rami, and nate. We started off the day with absolutely NO warmup. Nate and I were syked on Iron Claw Sit.. this is a problem that i had tried briefly a couple years back in the rain. So needless to say i was syked to get back to it. The problem starts on a set of underclings that seem to always be wet. From there you pull on a stuff a right heel on a sloper and ackwardly thrutch across to a good slope. After a couple more slaps on the arete you do a high right hand heel and cross big to a fat ass pinch.. then finish the bloc on easier moves. After Nate and I sent the original boulder i noticed an undercling about 2 ft left of the OG start. Intrigued and slightly bored i sat down and gave it an effort. On the first go i fell off the last move, and sent on my 2nd try. This problem is in no way recommended, but just another problem if you're feeling the urge.
From here we hiked up to Golden Harvest. I made a repeat and Nate go super close! And after this we hiked up to the Little and Big Bad Boulders and all had a run a couple classics. Nate and I were able to send Blackout, and Big Bad Right, and I finished off the area doing Big Bad, and Little Bad.. CLASSICS!
So then Nate was syked to head up to Speculum and give it some efforts, while Rami messed around on The Womb. Nate had some damn good efforts on Speculum, and Rami did all the moves on the womb quickly.. but no sends. Then i was fortunate enough to snag some ascents on Digital Scales, Speculum, and The orb to finsh off the day.
All in all it was a damn fine day, and we hiked out tired and hungry.
I through together a small clip of the day, and Nate through one together as well.

Rocktown from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.

Iron Claw Sit(V10) and Blackout(V10) from Nate Draughn on Vimeo.

Also Nate and Rami have decided to extend their stay till sunday, so be sure to stay tuned! SHITS GONNA GET DONE!!!!!

Enjoi

Genetic n Shit

2009-12-28T22:50:00.000-08:00

So here's a small clip i edited of the day at Hp40!

Enjoi

Hp40 from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.

Great Success!!

2009-12-27T19:23:00.000-08:00

So today we went to hp40! Our crew for the day included: Me, Kasia, Nate Draughn, Rami, John Gass,Mark Williams, Voges, Joe Beth, Randy Hill, Reger, Lee F, Maxim (crippled) Zolotuhkin, J Rush, and some others. Obviously a big day for hp!
So the day ended up really good, and tons of peeps crushed. I personally had my dream day at hp today.. somehow snagging two long awaited 2nd ascents of James Litz's Genetic, and Lee Paynes Illusions. SYKED!! After this i was able to do the FA of Ghetto Superstar Right ( an old Jeff Whales project) and finished off the day climbing classics like, Trick or Treat, American Pie, Don't Rock my Boat, The Kiss, and Skywalker.
And now to speed this up im gonna slap down a ticlist for ya!

VOGES
- Landslide, v9

NATE DRAUGHN
- Waterloo, v8
- Thugs n Bitches, v8
- Shoulda damn dun Skeletor, v10

RAMI
- Waterloo, v8
- Thugs N Bitches, v8
- Odd Job, v8
- Law Dog, V8

MARK WILLIAMS
- Hammerhead, v5
- Grooverider, v3
- Highlife, v4

MY SKANK ASS
- Illusions v12
- Genetic, v,11
- Ghetto Superstar Right, v10

JOHN GASS
- Slider, v9
- The Thief, v7
- The Flow, v7/8

Gonna have some more vids up here soon!

-Jweb

Another day at the LRC

2009-12-26T17:04:00.000-08:00

Today was a nice day out at Little Rock City.. Voges was syked to finish up Reflections, and we were both pretty syked for another round on the Tall Tee Project. Day started off with Jon Gass sending The Mechanic, v7.. he also got a new camera for christmas so im sure there will be a vid up sometime soon!
Then voges quickly took down Reflections and I started warming up some. Mr Luis rodriguez was also out today with a posse of peeps, so crash pads were plentiful. Everyone seemed syked on the classic Kaya, v8 so i jumped on board!
Afterwards we tried Tall Tee some and surprisingly go pretty close on "the move".. After today i feel as if it could go anytime!
fingers crossed.
Then we started playing on an undone dyno project on the same wall as Flying High. At first we were skeptical.. but after about a half hour of work I was able to snag the FA of Watch your back, v11. Really like this one!! So get syked and go get on it!
Here's a clip from today.

Enjoi

Another from Little Rock City from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.

Hueco Vid 1

2009-12-25T17:42:00.000-08:00

So here's the first Hueco video in the series! It includes Voges climbing El Techo, 8a. Me climbing Nick Duttles new problem on East, Sunshine 8a+. And Isabelle Faus climbing her first 8a, chbalanke!

More to come, so stay tuned!!

Enjoi

Hueco Tanks 2009 from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.

A couple G's

2009-12-25T11:07:00.000-08:00

Here's a quick clip of Voges and Weaver crushin in the Fred's Cave. Also im almost done with the first hueco vid!

Enjoi

2 from Fred's Cave from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.