Friday, May 6, 2011

La Sportiva Pythons



So, two days ago I got the brand spankin new La Sportiva Pythons sent to my front door. The hype behind this shoe has been gradually building for the past year or so, and when I heard they were on their way I was ecstatic!! So, what i'm wanting to do now is provide a small review and insight into what I think about this new shoe. Hope someone finds this useful!

CONSTRUCTION-

The new python is similar in look to the Classic Cobras, but a BIG upgrade when it comes to the overall shoe. A couple up & ups I noticed is the cross band construction under the sole, which keeps the shoe in a permanently down-turned position, the extra rubber on the front of the shoe for extreme toe hooks, a single velcro strap at the top for extra snugness, and stiffer rubber under the toe that is sensitive on small feet, but not flimsy. The python being a bit softer than the solution, makes for a much more comfortable shoe, but still gives you that edge you need when you're trying hard climbs. Rather it's smearing, edging, or toeing in on the roofs the python seems to do it all!

-SIZING-

I ordered my pythons in a size 40 1/2 ( same as my solutions) but after breaking them outa the box and being able to basically just slip em on, i think it would be best next time to go a half size down.


-PERFORMANCE-

How are these things on the wall? .. AMAZING! I've honestly never busted out a brand new pair of kicks and just went almost straight into projecting with little to no break in time. I did a nice juggy warm up a few times and noticed that i had good feeling in what i was stepping on, precision in the toe, and comfort in my heel. These things stick to your feet like glue. For me, i've never put on a pair of shoes that suction to my foot the way the Pythons do. It's like putting your toe's into a snug yet comfortable solution, and slipping your heel into a testarossa. It's perfect.

The pythons all in all were built mainly for competition climbing. Sportiva wanted to build the perfect shoe to match the competitors needs. A high performance climbing shoe that can basically do it all (and it does). Now this is not to say that it is just for indoor climbing. The shoe outside climbs just as well, and is an easy on easy off, comfortable solution to your climbing needs! Also, if it's money your worried about these things are cheaper than your average sportiva, sittin at $130 rather than $155.

So go check em out!! I highly recommend!

Enjoi

Monday, April 25, 2011

Red River Gorge / Obed

This weekend Kasia, Aj, and I took a trip up to the Red River Gorge (despite the weather looking like complete trash) We spent 2 days at the Red, before deciding the weather was just not worth the stay, and we bailed to the Obed for a day of better weather.

For our two days at the red we spent both of them at Bob Marley. On our first day I was able to climb No Redemption 13b on my 2nd attempt, while kasia and Aj worked out the beta on Dogleg 12a/13a.

Then on the 2nd day Kasia was able to piece together Dogleg ( one of the sickest things i've ever seen her climb ) while Aj got agonizingly close. Also I was able to climb a really nice one called Ultra Perm 13c.

At the Obed we took a hike out to South Clear and basically climbed in the Stephen King Library the whole day. Kasia climbed the shinning 12b, I climbed maximum overdrive 13a, misery 13b, solstice 12a, and a few others. Overall pretty good day! We all got ultra pumped and basically saw it as a day of endurance training.

Most of my climbing career has been geared towards climbing boulders, so for the next month while I'm in the south i'm gonna be gettin at the routes! Psyched to go out and try the ol' SOCO on thursday!!!!!

ENJOI

Saturday, April 9, 2011

Back in the NOOG

So i arrived home last night and went straight to my favorite restaurant ( TERMINAL !! ) Psyched to be home for a few weeks before i'm back on the road. Got some big plans coming up involving The ISLAND crew ( Chadwick Greedy, Nate Bancroft & Dave G ) we're traveling to Norway for 1 month searching, developing, and climbing some of the best boulders the world has to offer. I am psyched to say the least !! Our homie Nate Bancroft, who made Reach, will be filming the entire trip so you can expect a sick vid coming from all that ! If you haven't heard already, keep your eye out for the ISLAND. We got volume vids being edited as we speak... and they. are. sick.

For now here is a cool clip Cardeck edited of Dave & I climbing at Red Feather Lakes, CO.



And another nice video by Nalle featuring some of what Norway has to offer.



Enjoi

Friday, March 25, 2011

Burnout V12 video

Here's a cool clip Jon Cardwell put together of Dave and I climbing one of the best v12's CO has to offer. From my first look at the boulder, i knew it was my style, and instantly I saw it as a prime candidate for a flash attempt. I got the beta spray, sat down, chalked up, and climbed it to the top. Pretty psyched!!



Enjoi

Monday, March 21, 2011

Kasia in the Obed

Kasia & AJ took a trip down to the Obed last weekend to sample some of the nicest stone in the south. From what i've heard the weather was great and they had a great time! Here's a clip!

Thursday, March 17, 2011

Kasia in crush mode

While i'm here in Idaho, i've been checkin in on my girl. She's been hanging out in Chatty, but not just sitting around! Here's a vid of her finishing off one of her long term projects, Bedwetters v9/10.



Enjoi

Tuesday, March 15, 2011

Just right Low, Flagstaff MTN

Here's a quick video that Peter Beal put together of me making a rare ascent of Just right (low) V11, and Peter Climbing the V10 to the right. Thanks Peter!

More to come soon!



Enjoi