Tuesday, February 12, 2013

Well I just returned from another 8 days in Arkansas and although it didn't go quite as well as I planned I still had an incredible time.  This go around I was there with good friends Dave Wetmore, Nate Draughn, Rami Annab and Mike Durenleau.

Main objective of the trip was Witness the Fitness and surprisingly on my first day back on the boulder I fell transitioning into the v7 stand.  At this point I KNEW that I was going to climb the boulder.  I chilled out for a while and decided to give it one more go for the day.  Unfortunately what happened next was not me sending the bloc.  Instead it involved me ripping off the crux hold completely leaving the problem no longer possible...

This was definitely the most devastating moment in my climbing career.  Witness is the most incredible thing i've ever seen and for it to no longer be available for myself or anyone else to enjoy is saddening.  I have the hold sitting here with me at my house and though I know it's very probable to just glue the hold back on I do not want to be the person to do so.  This roof was freak, and it was natural! Sandstone caves like this just do not exist..  It's just not possible.  So for myself to be the one to turn it into something less would just feel, wrong.  Now on the other hand if someone out there was looking to put humpty dumpty back together, I wouldn't argue with em'.

On a brighter note I did manage to make a couple rare ascents of some cool climbs.  I managed the 3rd ascent of 'Welcome to Fight Club' & the 3rd ascent of Chris Sharma's 'Full Package'.

Full Package V13

Welcome to Fight Club V13

I shot a ton of footage of the trip so keep your eyes out for a video coming in the next few weeks!

Also, I am working on a couple shorts.  First involves Nate Draughn chatting about a new company he is working with called GIDDY, and the second including both Nate and Rami as they establish some really nice new boulders in Dayton, TN.

Rami just chattin

Rami on his masterpiece 'Down by the River' V9

Nate on the FA of 'Jumby' V10

On thursday i'll be making my way out to Hueco Tanks to compete in my very first Rock Rodeo!  I'm pretty stoked to be involved in it all this year and can't wait to try some of the new problems put up there as of recent.  My main objective though is to just have a good time and not push it.  I'm leaving for Switzerland next tuesday and I want to make sure i'm 100% healthy and not injured.  I know the guys over at Lt11 will be on the scene and we'll be shooting a nice little piece for Prana.  It's gonna involve Paul Robinson, Fred Nicole and I as we climb around on some of the boulders Fred FA'd so long ago.  It should be a neat vid and i'm excited to be a part of it. 

For now enjoi some screen shots and stay tuned for what is coming next!

Glass Bowl V10

Nate on 'Color of Fire' V10

Shadow Jumper V11

I have the toughest skin these days..

Dave on 'Fred's Roof' V10

Anti-Hero V12

The man.