Wednesday, November 30, 2011

The Recent

As of late i've been climbing a decent bit. Training in the gym, sport climbing, and some bouldering around Chatt. My highlight of the past 2 weeks though was the fact that I got to bolt my first sport route. I chose a really nice orange wall just out right of Apes on Acid at Castle Rocks. The line reminds me of a harder version of No Redemption at the RRG, and tomorrow i'm heading back to try my hand at the first ascent.

I've dubbed it 'Cookie Monster'

Today though Kasia, Rami, and I went out to Little ROck City for an afternoon sesh. The rock was still quite damp but we were able to find some dry rock.

I tried the impossible 8a, Made in France. Has anyone even climbed this thing???

Hueco in 11 days!!!!!


Thursday, November 24, 2011

Another from the Castle

Went out to Castle Rocks yesterday to try and finish off an old Jerry Roberts classic, Apes on Acid 13d. I was able to complete the route first go and began scoping out other route possibilities. The wall just right of Apes is an incredible blank (ish) golden face. Luis Rodriguez began bolting the top of the route when the question arose if it was even possible. I'm not 100% sure it will go either, but i'm psyched to head out there soon, finish the bolting job, and give it some efforts!

Screen shot of Apes on Acid


Sunday, November 20, 2011

Castle Rock Trail Day

Today I decided to attend the Castle Rock's Trail Day near Jasper, Tn. This is my second year in a row participating in the trail day and though this year's attendance was lower than the last, we had a very productive day. Luis Rodriguez, owner of The Tennessee Bouldering Authority, organized the event and was there doing work re-bolting classic lines on the Predator wall.

Big thanks to the Atlanta Rocks team who also showed up to help out. They held it down, and did work picking up trash on the trail in and the tops of the cliff. The rest of us including, Kasia Pietras, Rami Annab, Aj Hanson, and Anna Fox trudged from one end of the cliff to the next picking up remnants of good times fallen from the top.

Billy re-bolting Copperhead

Luckily enough the area is super well kept, and the days work shortly turned into a fun filled climbing day. I got to climb super classics such as Predator 12b, Copperhead 13a, and gave a couple good efforts on Apes on Acid 13d/14a. Afterwards we did a quick raffle and dished out some free swag!

Kasia's got the swag!

Big Thanks again to all who showed up. Events like this are crucial to keeping our climbing areas pristine and I strongly urge more climbers to get involved whenever they can.

More shots from the day:

Aj chillin


Gettin psyched up!


Friday, November 18, 2011

Day at Dayton

Yesterday Brion, Rami, and I went out to Dayton Pocket to try our luck on a couple cool boulders. The day was quite eventful as Rami climbed Lord of the Dance v11, Brion was able to snag the second ascent of Foundation v11, and Brion and I both started trying a new project on the Western Gold bloc.


At first glance the project looked quite doable. The first move is relatively simple to a lone pocket in the middle of the wall. After this you have to make a MASSIVE throw right hand to a small sloping edge, fighting gravity as it rips you back down the hill. The move itself seems to be the hardest single move I've ever encountered. When I think of hard one move problems such as Tall Tee, this one definitely seems to be a step above. I made a few decent efforts at the move, with my best goes being grabbing the crimp, yet I am unsure if I am anywhere near sticking it. Time will tell, and i'm psyched to head back!

On another note, I just recently purchased a Canon t3i!! This thing is definitely the nicest camera I have ever owned, and i'm psyched that It not only shoots video but pictures as well. Still got a lot to learn, but i'm psyched to get it started and see what I can come up with!

Here's a vid I shot yesterday of Brion climbing Foundation. Unfortunately the SD card I had was only a class 6, so I had to shoot in 640 rather than its 1920 capabilities. Oh well, quality will only get better!


Tuesday, November 1, 2011

Times at the Obed

The past few weekends friends and I have spent our time at the Lilly Boulders in the Obed Wild and Scenic River. It's been quite perfect really. Everyone has had amazing projects to try, and the weather at Lilly is much more pleasant than Chattown in the early fall. I personally have been psyched on two specific boulders, Chinese Arithmetic and a project on the recluse roof. Both of these problems are incredible, and if I can complete them they will be two of the hardest problems I've ever climbed. Meanwhile I am staring at 4 splits, and these next few days are going to spent healing up in hopes I can make it back to Lilly early next week.
The season is closing in here in the south and I couldn't be more ready for it!!!

Here's a short vid from our time spent in the boulders.