Thursday, October 20, 2011

Barn Door 2000 FA

The last two days I have spent my time trying two very very good projects located at Little Rock City, Tn. Day one i focused on the slab project that Brion and I have been trying on and off for like 3 years. I was able to complete the problem totally out of the blue for the FA naming it Team 87. For the grade, I am not 100% sure, but since my hardest slab prior to Team 87 was Odyssey V9, I figured V10 sounds appropriate. Later on that day I focused my attention on the looooong standing Barn Door 2000 project. I gave it many close attempts, but in the end I left empty handed. Today though, was different. I went back out there with the single focus of finishing it off, and I did! On my 3rd attempt of the day, with slightly different beta, I stuck the high edge and topped out. Very psyched to have this problem completed!

Here's a clip of the Barn Door 2000 FA


Monday, October 17, 2011

The Old is New

This weekend a few friends and I ( Rami Annab, Kasia Pietras & Taylor Mcneill) took a trip to a couple old areas that I haven't visited in years. Beautiful, remote granite boulders nestled in the thick green foliage of The Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

I first visited these areas 6 years ago and haven't returned in 4. Needless to say I was psyched for another peek. What I recalled most about the area was that the boulders were granite, unlike the majority of rocks that litter the southeast. Also, i remembered the boulders being relatively blank. Little to no features, no jugs, and small crimps. A recipe for hard boulders, yea? Saturday morn we woke up early and drove 45 minutes to the 'roadside bloc' that hosts a single amazing project on a perfect 40 degree overhang. This boulder was strange and quite difficult. Essentially the boulder consists of a hard v9 bottom, to a v9 or v10 dyno at the finish. Temps were not the best that day but I was lucky enough to snag the FA dubbing the line Bushido V11.

Bushido V11

After this we were all psyched to take the 15 minute hike up the mountain to the next cluster. This area I remembered well, and I knew there were at least 2 nice projects waiting to be climbed. One of which being a simulator of LRC's slab testpiece Space. I got the rope out, rapped down the thing and started cleaning. Rami got out his assortment of brushes and started scrubbing as well. 30 minutes later we had the problem prepped and ready and only 15 more minutes after that the boulder was climbed for its 1st and 2nd ascents. Spaced and Dissonant V6 is her name.

While all this was going on Taylor was over at the other project basically mowing grass off the top. He eventually got it cleaned up nicely, and we were able to climb the problem. I called this one Spitting Cobra V8, and though it's a small(ish) problem, it packs a powerful punch!

Overall the smokies exploration was a success, and I am very confident that this area holds more amazing projects to be climbed.

Me (4 years ago) on a project in the Smokies

Needs some cleaning

Big butt looking boulder up the road

Sunday we all decided to head out to the Lilly Boulders and spend the day trying some new boulders and getting in some mileage. 77 was the high so we were a bit skeptical at first but the day proved to be decent. I was able to complete all the moves but one on Chinese Arithmetic V13, while Rami and Taylor both put in super efforts of Testify V12. I was also fortunate enough to discover a brand new project on the Recluse roof! I am so psyched on this thing, and I am positive that once it is completed it will be somewhere in the v14/15 range. Can't wait for the cold weather!!

Here's a short video from the weekend.


Thursday, October 6, 2011

'A Fine Line' Premier in Atlanta, Ga

So tonight is the first premier of Andrew Kornylaks ' A Fine Line'. If you happen to be in Atlanta, or you have the chance to go check it out I highly recommend it! Andrew and Josh Fowler did an amazing job with this thing, and i'm proud to have been a part of it!!

Also for those of you who are attending the Stone Fort (LRC) competition this weekend be sure to stick around after the comp for the second major viewing of 'A Fine Line'. The movie will be premiered on the 18th fairway right next to the boulders! Gonna be sick!

Here's some beta to get you to tonights viewing!

Thursday, October 6 · 7:00pm - 10:00pm

Patagonia Atlanta - 34 East Andrews Drive, Atlanta GA 30305

Additional Info:
Admission is FREE!

Come and hang out at Patagonia Atlanta with an awesome crew of people and see the premiere of "A Fine Line." Presented by Dead Point Media. Directed by Andrew Kornylak and Josh Fowler.

Fore More info:

A new full-length film from directors Andrew Kornylak and Josh Fowler for Dead Point Media, A Fine Line follows one season with some of the world's most visionary boulderers as they pursue the best - and worst - rock in America, from Alpine Colorado to remote Idaho and the Deep South.

Featuring Jimmy Webb, Brion Voges, Dave Graham, Daniel Woods, Peter Beal, and other top climbers, A Fine Line is a beautiful visual
meditation on the bouldering life.



Lowepro will be giving away a FREE video bag when you purchase the HD version of the film at
the event!

Wednesday, October 5, 2011

Triple Crown: Hound Ears, Nc

Last weekend was the first stop of the annual triple crown bouldering competition held at Hound Ears, Nc. Though I decided not to compete in the comp this year, i happily made the trek through those windy roads to plant myself deep in the Appalachian mountains for a weekend filled with amazing weather, good friends, and an abnormally relaxing comp scene.

This year Voges & I decided to dub the hound ears comp day 'project day' as we set out into the field taking a glance at a couple beautiful undone lines. Luckily for us we ran across a couple pieces of rock that suited our fancy. First on the list was a project on the three bears boulder. Voges was able to climb the line for the first ascent, and i followed close behind with the second of 'Subject to Change' v11. Afterwards we were directed to a project down the hill by triple crown organizer Jim Horton. We turned the corner, dropped our jaws, said fuck yea, and began cleaning vigorously! 2 hours later, and about 6 days of skin in the hole I made the FA of the line dubbing it 'Projections' V12 ( likely the hardest bloc in the field ). Brion obviously followed close behind for the second!

Here's a vid of our day plus Brion climbing the famous litz problem 'Kratos' V12.

Congratulations to all the competitors who competed last weekend, and congrats to all the peeps that had a killer time!

Check here for the full results of the comp.

This weekend is going to be the 2nd stop of the series at Stone Fort. I'm planning on climbing in the following 2 competitions, and although i just caught some sickness going around and it's going to be 80 degrees saturday, i'm looking forward to the weekend!