Sunday, April 22, 2012

Disappointment in Boston

So kash and I are sitting in the Boston airport awaiting our flight home. The competition was a super good time and Kash ended up taking 2nd! As for me, it did not go so well. Qualifiers was set really tough and I ended up 3rd going in to finals. The finals route was set very well, but unfortunately was set to destroy me. Most recently i have acquired two injuries in both of by knees and in one crucial section of the route you had to do a double heel hook that allowed you to make it up to the headwall. Hanging there I went through a series of thoughts and in all actuality I should have just let go. Unfortunately I went for it, messed up sequence and finally my right knee gave out and I came swinging off the wall. Once I was down my knee wasn't in too much pain but once the adrenaline wore off I felt as if I could barely walk on it. I popped a shit ton of Ibuprofen and iced it well. It feels decent today but still very sore. Looks like I'm going to have to schedule that doctors appointment I really did not want to make. Overall though it was a cool experience! This was Central Rocks first major indoor competition and I have to say they did just as well as any other competition I have been to. The setting was really good (besides qualifiers being SO hard) and the people that make up the CRG were super nice. I can't wait for the next event they throw!

For now it's back to Chatty. The next few days are looking in the low 60's so it' time for another round of attempts on the project!!! Also, next month Kash and I are going to attend the River Rock Competition in Richmond, VA. So, until then we'll be working & training.

Congrats to all the finalist this weekend, and thanks again to everyone at the CRG!!



Unknown said...

Sorry to hear about your knees. Poorly designed joint, for sure. I was curious if you ever found what happened to your finger a while back? I recently had a similar injury, I think. Pop in my ring finger, pain in my forearm. No tenderness in my finger AT ALL, but if I put tension on it, I really feel it in my forearm.

Hope you heal fast, and thanks.

Daily doses said...

Yea man, that sounds like you did exactly what I did.. Which was tweaking my ring finger tendon. Basically for recovery I iced it a good bit at first and then started experimenting with hot & cold therapy followed by some mellow finger exercises. As for climbing, I continued to climb but only in the most controlled fashion. I found out quickly that with the tendon injury you can actually climb in the half crimped position with little to no pain at all. Full crimp felt a little painful and open handed pockets killed the worse!! So be sure if you're going to climb to just be careful and don't push it. If you get dynamic and that pinkie slips off you're really gonna feel it...

Good luck man, hope you have a quick recovery!!

Anonymous said...

Rest, rest, rest. My knees were jacked as shit. I've been taking CosaminDS for the past 2 months and they feel close to normal. Severe pain previously, especially when I would lay down for bed. Get better dude!

Anonymous said...

The structure of the skin and our ability to compress muscles has allowed us to create new standards on the rock.

The recognition that we are capable of defying what we once thought was impossible on the rock has inspired us to create and utilize a structured wall with plastic holds.

A structured wall with plastic holds can either destroy a person, or it can create a warrior that is ready to battle against nature's most powerful rocks.

If we only take what nature gives, then we will be at the mercy of the beast; her weather, her designs, her textures.

But if you go behind her back and build something to replicate her, then your learned capabilities are unnatural. Cheating nature is a dangerous game that will lead to injuries, heart break, and worst of all, the obsession with taking rock to the next level.

Anonymous said...

Just exploded my hand similarly - It may be a 'lumbrical tear'. Lumbricals attach one tendon to the next, so when one lets go, using all fingers at the same time is fine, using them separate is pain. Crimps are fine, big pinches bad. (Right hand last year and left hand last week).

Take some time, heal up, and feel better!