Sunday, April 4, 2010

Boone Recap

So my time in Boone is up and im chill'n back in Chatty now. The trip was an overall success! Though i may not have climbed a couple lines i was really syked on, my time there was well worth it! As you saw earlier i left with a rather large tic list of boulders I was syked on completing. Now that i've returned the list has changed a smidge, and this is what i came home with.

Day 1
- Preferential Treatment V10
- Big Booty Judy V10
- Beasley's Face Sit V11

Day 2
- Portobello V9 Flash
- Ominous Roof V9 Flash
- Love Johnson v10

Day 3
- Comfort Arete V10 FA

Day 4
- Have Guns Keep Traveling V9 Flash

Day 5
- Pure Wonder V8
- Now and Zen V10 2nd asc.
- Double Barrel V10 FA
- Big Brick V11 FA
- The Wataugan V12 FA

On day 5 we went to a really sick area called Spence's Ridge in the Linville Gorge. This is a new area to me, and i was MOST syked to check out what it had to offer. After the 40 minute hike down to the river we were completely surrounded by rock! We warmed up at a cool boulder called The Patio Roof and I instantly got syked on a project that climbs straight out the center. Me, Rami and Nate worked out sum beta and I was able to finish it off calling it Big Brick, V11. Our bud Dalton got sum video, so hopefully we'll see that soon!

After this we walked down to one of the sickest roofs ive ever seen. And to top it all off there was a project coming straight out the middle dubbed the Glory Roof Project. The crux of this one revolved around a big ass swing from a fully stretched out position. After that you finish on a very insecure v9 to an easy mantle. Nate and I worked out the beta for a while and after almost giving up.. the crux beta finally clicked. I started to throw my shoes on and the wind picked up. Next go i held the swing and fell off the finish. Syked as shit i sat down, relaxed, and sent. I decided to call this boulder "The Wataugan" V12.. naming it after its founder Mike Stam. Before heading out to the gorge i watched a rad clip of him getting super close on it, and shortly after he had a devastating bicep injury which ultimately kept him from sending the problem. Props most definately goes out to him!

Then to finish off the day we all went over to try Pure Wonder, V8. Nate, Josh, and I all sent and we started trying an unrepeated Andrew Gearing Problem called Now and Zen, V10. I was able to finish, while nate got super close! Also, earlier in the day Josh spoted a new line on the now and zen boulder that was just screaming to be climbed!! We all worked out some beta and in the end i was able to complete the masterpiece! Very syked to say the least, i think this one could be one of my favorite boulders i've ever done. It climbs around 15 moves on rad pinches and crimps. On my last go of the day feeling tired as shit i was able to send. Which came as a huge surprise to me, so i couldn't have been happier. After this we hiked our asses out straight up hill for close to an hour. I booked it out, and just about threw up. My cardio is most definately not on its A game!

All in all the trip to Boone was sick good. I really enjoyed chill'n with Nate and Rami. Those mother fuckers are crazy as shit! Also enjoyed the company of the others who live with Nate. Theres a sick crew up there in Boone, and to me they symbolize what i think climbing should be.(Chill, and based on pure enjoyment of climbing some random rock) Thanks to everyone who showed me around, I can't wait to get back!

Here's a Vid Nate threw together of me sending The Wataugan! Thanks bro.

The Wataugan(V12) from Nate Draughn on Vimeo.



Anonymous said...

No problem on the vid homes! Grab voges and lets get back down there! josh is syked on the devils hole spot this weekend. Go down there for the 2 days.

Nate D.

Daily doses said...

Word! Yea i was telling him all about it today. He's syked! Can't come down this weekend, but next weekend is a definite! Weather permiting of course.
Man, im miss'n it already..

Anonymous said...

wish i was in the gorge instead of MO. Nice job on the roof man. Superb climb on a superb boulder. Can't wait to do it myself if I can ever climb again. Also, where on the other boulder did you guys do the other problem? There's one facing the wonderful arete called life during wartime that starts on that sweet jug horn and goes out that arete/rail . Devil's hole is where it's at though. Way more boulders. Have fun. mikestam

Daily doses said...

Wat up mike. Yea we started double barrel below that jug horn and threw to the horn then followed it out squeezing under the belly of the roof wrapping around to the backside. Same thing? Really sick line either way! Thought it deserved 10 points. Thanks for being so open to beta on this area. Topos n such help out alot! Heading to Devils hole soon! Very syked. Get well soon.