Monday, April 12, 2010

The Now

Since i've been back from boone i've been training like hell! I spent 5 days straight climbing in Boone, and came back home to 5 straight days of training. Though i've obviously been sore as shit, i can definately say im in the best shape of my life. Ive completed some "projects" in the gym that to me symbolize a new personal level. Hopefully all this hard work will pay off this summer in Co! Im really syked to get outa chatt for a while, and can't wait to just be chilln with the bro's!

The past few days ive spent trainng with brion. Yesterday kinda went like this:
I woke up and did a 20 minute p90X workout, followed by a 30 minute moonboard workout, followed by a 2 hour sesh at tba.

Today was similar, yet a bit more intense. I woke up and voges came over for a 30 minute moonboard sesh. Then a couple hours later we were at tba. We climbed for about 2 hours and then chilled out. I ate some lunch and then we did some intense campusing for about 2 hours, followed by a 150 move circuit on the jug wall. No abs today due to me still being sore from yesterday. Tomorrow is gonna be really lax. Im gonna head into tba and set some more problems, and maybe climb a few moderates.
Wedensday is a rest day and thursday Me, Nate, Brion, and Hugh are driving to Boone for the weekend! Most syked to head back to Linville Gorge! We're gonna head to another spot called Devil's Hole, though spence's ridge was dope, ive heard rumor of Devils Hole having three times as many boulders as well as projects! Can't wait!

Here's another list i've thrown together for the weekend!

Don Johnson v11
Black Crack v13
Teamwork v10
Last of the Mohicans v11
And anything and everything in the gorge!

Enjoi

9 comments:

wucactus1 said...

Im planning on getting a moonboard to supplement my metolious simulator this summer to train for a trip out to co. as well. What do you guys typically do on the moonboard? Do you do just dead hangs, one arm lock-offs weighted hangs? An overview would be awesome, im trying to step up my game for the projects...

Christopher said...

it seems kinda strange to me to do p90x, then a hangboard workout, then a bouldering sesh, and then a campus workout, and then an endurance workout, doesn't it? it seems to me like you would want to climb first, and then supplement with either hangboarding, campusing, or endurance, and then finish up with something like p90x. any thoughts/justifications as to what your training is all about? just curious, and keep crushing bro!

Daily doses said...

For sure man! Right now we're just going with the Moon training plan.

http://usa.moonclimbing.com/fingerboard-training-plan-c-334_353.html

Its quite tough, and i plan on
doing it every other day to prevent injury. I did it yesterday, and again today along with alot of gym climbing and fingers are wrecked! As of right now im just going by their plan but hopefully before too long i will develop my own system that suites me best.

Good luck!

Daily doses said...

Well for me p90 is the most accessible obviously because i can do it whenever/wherever. And since the gym doesnt open till 4 thats usually what i do.

And when it comes to hangboard workouts i've always read that it's safest to warmup and do your routine. Hangboards are the best way to get stronger, but also the easiest way to injure your fingers. So you should always do them when you feel fresh and ready to go.

Also, i have a hangboard here at my house so its super accessible!

My workout routines are really not set in stone, and every day is different. Honestly i believe this is the best method for me. I need change in my training routines otherwise i become bored and tend to burnout.

Thanks man for your opinions/thoughts!
I agree with what your saying, and questioning these sorts of things is a great way to fine tune what you want most in your "workout".

Jweb

Dylin C. said...

ey buddy just curious if you guys are tweaking that moon work out in the slightest bit. me and my buddy have been using that work out and were always trying to push ourselves to see how much weight we can hang the smallest crimps with. i peak at about 50 pounds, while my buddy is at 100. itd be intresting to hear how much you rock crushers can do!

Christopher said...

ah, ok. that makes sense, thanks!

Daily doses said...

Anytime man!

Sick! On the smallest edges? Thats burly! Right now we're not tweaking anything. I've only had the board for about 2 weeks so i've just been sticking to the plan. We've talked about adding weight though for sure, and in the near future im sure thats what we'll do! If your talkin about the smallest edges i dont think ill be able to do much more than 50.. Haha. Im already 180 lbs! Fat i know.. but thats about enough!

André Várzea said...

hi!
i'm from brasil so there's some things that i don't understand.. what does "p90x" mean?
thanks! and good climbs!

Mark said...

I know I'm a bit late on this stuff but the link

http://usa.moonclimbing.com/fingerboard-training-plan-c-334_353.html

doesn't go anywhere. Was it the same as this?

http://www.moonclimbing.com/blog/school/fingerboard-training-plan/

Also, what do you do for abs and has your finger board workout evolved at all since this post?

Thanks!