So this saturday & sunday we decided to head back to the Obed, Tn. I had heard of a really cool boulder at the Canoe Hole called Manic Aggression (v11) that James Litz fa'd some years ago. What's most notable about this awesome line is that there is a 10-12 move v11 low start beginning in the very back of the roof. I was told that James attempted to link this problem, but never returned to do so. So with this new info, i got psyched! On saturday I was able to Flash the stand start, and began working on the low immediately. I sussed out the low moves quick, gave it 3 efforts from the bottom, and decided to come back on sunday. Then on sunday on my 2nd go from the start i found myself at the stand start crux.. a toss from a small left hand edge to a nice jug edge for the right.. as i latched onto the hold, disaster struck! My 4 finger bucket turned to 3 real quick leaving me exposed and all of my weight on my bad tendon. A shot of pain ran up my forearm and I hit the ground........ "is it fucked?!" I sat down and examined it and quickly realized I had tweaked it a good bit... I called it quits, ran down to the river, and iced my finger for 20 minutes. After this we decided to roll over to Lilly Boulders to meet up with Brion Voges & Nate Draughn. Unfortunately for them though the rocks were soaking wet from condensation. So, we decided to head back over to the Canoe Hole so they could all get a session in on Manic. Then crazy enough we got to the roof and it was starting to condensate! The boys quickly got to work while i tested my tendon out on every hold i could see... "not too painful", "A little awkward on that one", "Fuck it, i'll try the stand and see if it hurts!" Little to my surprise, no pain! So i completed the stand for a second time and sat around for 30 minutes. Time crept on and the holds were starting to just get too wet to climb on. So right then I decided to give it just one ditch effort. I made it through the low crux, got half way through the upper problem and found myself staring down the hold that hurt my finger.. "Hit it with four, hit it with four.." I jumped and latched on hard, swung out, and found myself still on! I then collected myself and embarked on the 10 move v7/8 finish. Pumped as shit.. I finished it out for the First Ascent of Manic Euphoria, V13. I couldn't be happier!!
Here is a clip i threw together of a couple problems at the Canoe Hole. Splatter v9, and Manic Euphoria. I wasn't able to get the send footage of Manic due to it being quite random. So I did some moves for vid and pieced it together.
Hope you Enjoi,