Sunday, January 30, 2011

Back to the Obed

So this saturday & sunday we decided to head back to the Obed, Tn. I had heard of a really cool boulder at the Canoe Hole called Manic Aggression (v11) that James Litz fa'd some years ago. What's most notable about this awesome line is that there is a 10-12 move v11 low start beginning in the very back of the roof. I was told that James attempted to link this problem, but never returned to do so. So with this new info, i got psyched! On saturday I was able to Flash the stand start, and began working on the low immediately. I sussed out the low moves quick, gave it 3 efforts from the bottom, and decided to come back on sunday. Then on sunday on my 2nd go from the start i found myself at the stand start crux.. a toss from a small left hand edge to a nice jug edge for the right.. as i latched onto the hold, disaster struck! My 4 finger bucket turned to 3 real quick leaving me exposed and all of my weight on my bad tendon. A shot of pain ran up my forearm and I hit the ground........ "is it fucked?!" I sat down and examined it and quickly realized I had tweaked it a good bit... I called it quits, ran down to the river, and iced my finger for 20 minutes. After this we decided to roll over to Lilly Boulders to meet up with Brion Voges & Nate Draughn. Unfortunately for them though the rocks were soaking wet from condensation. So, we decided to head back over to the Canoe Hole so they could all get a session in on Manic. Then crazy enough we got to the roof and it was starting to condensate! The boys quickly got to work while i tested my tendon out on every hold i could see... "not too painful", "A little awkward on that one", "Fuck it, i'll try the stand and see if it hurts!" Little to my surprise, no pain! So i completed the stand for a second time and sat around for 30 minutes. Time crept on and the holds were starting to just get too wet to climb on. So right then I decided to give it just one ditch effort. I made it through the low crux, got half way through the upper problem and found myself staring down the hold that hurt my finger.. "Hit it with four, hit it with four.." I jumped and latched on hard, swung out, and found myself still on! I then collected myself and embarked on the 10 move v7/8 finish. Pumped as shit.. I finished it out for the First Ascent of Manic Euphoria, V13. I couldn't be happier!!

Here is a clip i threw together of a couple problems at the Canoe Hole. Splatter v9, and Manic Euphoria. I wasn't able to get the send footage of Manic due to it being quite random. So I did some moves for vid and pieced it together.

Hope you Enjoi,

9 comments:

leopold said...

you need to go to royal blue next time you are in the area. 20ft roofs everywhere, unclimbed.

Anonymous said...

How do you get to this place?

Daily doses said...

Leopold, royal would be sick! Maybe next time I get that way I can come check it out!

Anonymous, email me and i'll shoot you some directions!
jwntbprana@yahoo.com

dalton said...

jimmy you are crushing shit nice work on these last couple videos really sick problems keep up the good work

Anonymous said...

Hi, Jimmy. Im sure it was pure mis information but the manic aggression line is actually the line that I did years ago. I did a shorty version of it and then linked it from the bottom later. The short line never really had a name. At any rate, Im glad you found and did it. Its a pretty rad line.

James

Anonymous said...

Also, shoot me a message on facebook. I know where an enormous amount of rock is in Virginia that you should check out.

James

Daily doses said...

James, thanks for clearing that up! It is an amazing line to say the least. One of the best i've seen or climbed. Very cool you did this one years ago!

DAN said...

all spray

Daily doses said...

Clearly :)