Big Brick

As promised here is a cool vid put together by Dalton Hilfinger. It includes Josh sending the ultra classic Pure Wonder, V8 and me on the 1st ascent of Big Brick, V11. Thanks again Dalton!

Enjoi

Linville Gorge North Carolina - Project Day from Erik Danielson on Vimeo.

Boone Recap

So my time in Boone is up and im chill'n back in Chatty now. The trip was an overall success! Though i may not have climbed a couple lines i was really syked on, my time there was well worth it! As you saw earlier i left with a rather large tic list of boulders I was syked on completing. Now that i've returned the list has changed a smidge, and this is what i came home with.


Day 1
- Preferential Treatment V10
- Big Booty Judy V10
- Beasley's Face Sit V11

Day 2
- Portobello V9 Flash
- Ominous Roof V9 Flash
- Love Johnson v10

Day 3
- Comfort Arete V10 FA

Day 4
- Have Guns Keep Traveling V9 Flash

Day 5
- Pure Wonder V8
- Now and Zen V10 2nd asc.
- Double Barrel V10 FA
- Big Brick V11 FA
- The Wataugan V12 FA

On day 5 we went to a really sick area called Spence's Ridge in the Linville Gorge. This is a new area to me, and i was MOST syked to check out what it had to offer. After the 40 minute hike down to the river we were completely surrounded by rock! We warmed up at a cool boulder called The Patio Roof and I instantly got syked on a project that climbs straight out the center. Me, Rami and Nate worked out sum beta and I was able to finish it off calling it Big Brick, V11. Our bud Dalton got sum video, so hopefully we'll see that soon!

After this we walked down to one of the sickest roofs ive ever seen. And to top it all off there was a project coming straight out the middle dubbed the Glory Roof Project. The crux of this one revolved around a big ass swing from a fully stretched out position. After that you finish on a very insecure v9 to an easy mantle. Nate and I worked out the beta for a while and after almost giving up.. the crux beta finally clicked. I started to throw my shoes on and the wind picked up. Next go i held the swing and fell off the finish. Syked as shit i sat down, relaxed, and sent. I decided to call this boulder "The Wataugan" V12.. naming it after its founder Mike Stam. Before heading out to the gorge i watched a rad clip of him getting super close on it, and shortly after he had a devastating bicep injury which ultimately kept him from sending the problem. Props most definately goes out to him!

Then to finish off the day we all went over to try Pure Wonder, V8. Nate, Josh, and I all sent and we started trying an unrepeated Andrew Gearing Problem called Now and Zen, V10. I was able to finish, while nate got super close! Also, earlier in the day Josh spoted a new line on the now and zen boulder that was just screaming to be climbed!! We all worked out some beta and in the end i was able to complete the masterpiece! Very syked to say the least, i think this one could be one of my favorite boulders i've ever done. It climbs around 15 moves on rad pinches and crimps. On my last go of the day feeling tired as shit i was able to send. Which came as a huge surprise to me, so i couldn't have been happier. After this we hiked our asses out straight up hill for close to an hour. I booked it out, and just about threw up. My cardio is most definately not on its A game!

All in all the trip to Boone was sick good. I really enjoyed chill'n with Nate and Rami. Those mother fuckers are crazy as shit! Also enjoyed the company of the others who live with Nate. Theres a sick crew up there in Boone, and to me they symbolize what i think climbing should be.(Chill, and based on pure enjoyment of climbing some random rock) Thanks to everyone who showed me around, I can't wait to get back!

Here's a Vid Nate threw together of me sending The Wataugan! Thanks bro.

The Wataugan(V12) from Nate Draughn on Vimeo.

Enjoi

Boone Update

So im chillin here in Boone with Nate and Rami. The trip thus far has been nice, and somewhat productive! Two days done and i've been able to climb some cool problems! Boone has a really nice concentration of classic lines ranging from easy to pretty damn hard, so i've had plenty to keep my busy! As weather goes its been pretty warm. Our first day was really nice. Mid 50s with high winds.. But today was in the high 60s and felt warm as hell! The rest of the week looks hot as well with days sitting in the high 70s.. So we'll see how the rest of the trip goes! Tomorrow we're gonna rest, and friday we're planning on heading out to Blowing Rock super early in hopes that Rami can finish off Portobello! Word.

Here's a list of some boulders i've climbed so far:

Preferential Treatment
Big Booty Judy
Beasley's Face Sit
Love Johnson
Ominous Roof
Portobello

Also Nate shot some vid of me climbing Preferential Treatment.

Check it!

http://natedraughn.louderthan11.com/?p=1613

Enjoi

Stayin Syked

Wow, been a while since i've updated. Honestly not much has been going on. The weather here in Chatty has gotten a bit on the warm side so i've been spending the majority of my time indoors training. I've never been big on training but with our trip to Colorado coming up in about a month i've been most syked to step it up! Also to help me out with my training i've purchased a Moon Hangboard! If this doesn't improve my crimp strength, i dont know what will!!

Today for a change of scenery i went out sport climbing to try my luck on Soco. Interestingly enough i felt pretty good on the route, considering I haven't done any endurance training in almost a year.. On my first go i made it half way up the route feeling quite pumped and out of touch.. but my 2nd burn was much better! I basically made it to the last crux section and fell clipping the 2nd to last bolt! From here i quickly pulled up the rope and got on for the one hang! Syked to head out on saturday and try to finish it off! Brad Weaver was also out there today and is making QUICK work of the route! He fell twice on the last section, and will DEFINATELY crush the rig on saturday! Syked to work on this thing with him! Puts the whole realm of sport climbing together for me.

Also, i am most syked on the upcoming week! I've got a hold of Nate Draughn and Rami out in the Boone, NC. This next week is their spring break so they're looking to spend it climbing! So with the weather looking DAMN good there for the whole week I am gonna pack up and head that way and see what we can get done!! SYKED!

Here's a small ticlist i've thrown together to keep me motivated!

- Engine Bloc Project
- Big Black Crack
- Funny Bone
- Kratos
- Beasley's Face Sit
- Don Johnson
- Love Johnson
- Preferential Treatment
- Movement on Stone
- Big Booty Judy
- Temporal Analogs of Paradise
- Atomic Melvin Sit project

Enjoi!

Bishop 3

So we're currently back in the Nooga! Im syked to be home. Rest dayz are much needed right now. I have three splits and bruised tips so those need time to heal. Plans for the future include Training for Colorado in early may, and training for Soco. My endurance right now im sure is complete shit so there is major work to be done!

I know i never finished recapping the trip so here is a quick look into our last 3 days.

Friday as planned we headed out to try Spectre. The problem was not completed but i felt agonizingly close on the crux move and feel as if we had more time i could maybe put it together. Oh well. Another one for next year. Prior to that i ran up some classic highballs! Suspended in Silence, v5. and the classic v6 to the left. (dunno the name).ULTRA CLASSIC!! After this we went over to the Sads. Jacob and Kasia were syked on a couple climbs and Voges and I were syked on a Problem called Shazam Sit, v9/10. I was able to send and Jacob and Kasia got REALLY close on Pow Pow, V8. I finished the day trying to run up some classics. Which Included: Pow Pow, v8. Los Locos, V7, and Rio's Crack, v6. With no thought to the next day i trashed my skin. Three Bruised tips, and three split tips.... no bueno..

Saturday we ran up to the Buttermilks for what ended up a Balln ass day for Brion! I was basically thrashed but i decided to try hard with him. He was syked to try the Mandala SDS, V13. Theres was a slew of hard climbers attempting the line so we thought what the hell, and jumped in. I was able to link the sit into the stand a few times but wasnt able to do the higher crux with the amount of tape required to keep my fingers in tact.. I basically rolled off the high edge, splitting the tape in half, and my finger. Meanwhile brion was attempting the bottom, but couldn't seem to link into the stand. I sat there taking my shoes off thinking " damn, if he just does the bottom he won't fall off the top" And not to my surprise, next go, the boy was on top!
Then, as if that wasn't enough, Voges decided he had some extra skin and energy by hiking up Direction V13 in under an hour!
Sickness, i know. i know!

And at last Sunday arrived. I was laughing about how bad my skin was, and Voges was just about in the same boat. We hiked up to Xaviers Roof, V11. This was Brions last main climb on his list so he was determined to top it off right. He sent the line in three tries and we bounced. To finish the day we dropped Issabelle, Jacob, Brion, and Joe Beth off at the Happies to meet up with Janitor Stankins. Then kasia and I proceeded to the Buttermilks to enjoy the sun and climb with Cali Locals Tim, and Dan. Not much happened. Just some more skin shredd'n and a couple moderate classics. The day ended and we hiked out tired, and ready for home! Trip over, and i already can't wait for next year!!!

Filming on this trip was definately at a minimum. Sorry to those of you who were syked on watching a few crappy/ poorly edited flics of mine! Seemed our main focus was just on climbing and hanging out. Plus we were very absent minded about charging the damn thing.. oh well.

Anyway, here is one vid i've managed to throw together. In includes Mr. Voges crushing a few of them buttermilk classics!

Enjoi

Bishop, Ca from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.

More Bishop

So a few more days are up here in Bishop. I unfortunately had to miss one day of climbing due to fluid build up in my left knee..?? Don't know what brought that on, but the rest of the trip was looking iffy.. Luckily enough i woke up yesterday pissed off and said fuck it im climbing anyway. Warming up proved hard, but an hour into it, along with a few pills i was good to go! We started off at the Carter boulder where things got done! Kasia and Issabelle sent the classic Seven Spanish Angels, V7. Me and Brion were able to complete A Scanner Darkly, V12. And kasia also ran up Get Carter, V7.

Temps were feeling ripe so then we decided to bust over to the Beehive area to try our luck on The Swarm. This one proved to be a very difficult crimp problem basically revolving around one move. My skin was already split on two tips so around 20 minutes was about all i had till i was toast! I definately had a few really nice goes where i felt as if it could get done, but time was ticking. Guess it'll have to wait till next year..

On the way out we decided to go check out A form Destroyer, V12. This ones just a small three move power boulder, that finishes on a nice tall slabby finish. I had seen vids of this line ever since i started climbing so needless to say my syke ran high. Chalking up i knew all the beta, and just pulled on a fired it first try! It always feels really good to see a problem for so long, and finally be able to come try it. Plus theres always the added bonus of flashing hard boulders. :)

Today is another rest day so we're just chillin. We sat in the hot springs for a bit..saw some old naked dudes... And now we just ate some food at a sick good local deli. My skin is definately in need of more rest but tomorrow we will head out early for our first round of attempts on Spectre!

Also Chattown oldie Ronnie Jenkins is gonna be driving in tomorrow night from his new home here in Cali. So it'll be cool to see a familiar face!

Enjoi

Bishop update

So today is our first rest day here in bishop. So far the weather has been nice and climbing has been great! On our first day we Arrived at the peabodys to find it quite cold, and snowing. We quickly warmed up and all ran up the ultra classic high plains drifter. After this voges and I were syked to try the buttermilker. And with some quick work we both sent the stand. Then it was off to the mandala for voges to give is long awaited flash attempt. I first wanna start off by saying that this boulder was built for brion! And in no time at all he was hiking the crux in wat looked like around v5. And topped out with enough syke and energy to probably down climb the damn thing. For all of you interested in brions take on the problem/ grade/ start dilema. Go check his blog at www.brionvoges.blogspot.com.



On our second day we decided to run back over to the buttermilker to try and polish off the sit start. We both gave a couple nice efforts falling off the last move. Then I was able to dispatch with brion following right behind. Then to finish off the day we ran over to the happies where everyone got a problem done. To speed things up here's a small list!

Jacob, issabelle, and kasia did gleamer v6
voges sent toxic avenger v9/10. And flashed acid wash v9/10.
And I climbed a newish line called kill onsight v12.

So like I said were resting today. Skin is feeling pretty decent so tomorrow were heading out to try the swarm, and spectre. Big day, I know.. Haha. Wish us luck, were gonna need it!

Enjoi